When I want wonderfully cooked or impeccably fresh fish, I go to Liv's Oyster Bar in Old Saybrook. Sushi and sashimi – found elsewhere – seem to pale in comparison to the kitchen's seafood preparations, from the Arctic Char to the crab cakes, Stonington scallops, mussels, and raw oysters. The bounty continues, with Mahi-Mahi, Yellowfin tuna, and linguine with white clam sauce.
Meat lovers won't be disappointed. The short ribs were unforgettable, with a Russian twist. Those with a sweet tooth will be amply rewarded: the kitchen offers a few unusual recipes - see my accompanying shot of a superb pear Napoleon.
In my review of Liv's in this Thursday's Night and Day section, I'll describe two recent meals that confirmed those at the helm of Liv's have kept their eyes on excellence, in service, and in food. The space is decorated sparely, with no cozy fripperies, and plenty of space between tables. The emphasis is on the kitchen, where it should be, and we're lucky to have Liv's moored along our shores.