- 2016 Elections
- 2016 Lunch Debates
- Special Reports
- Maps & Data
- Dear Abby
- Games & Puzzles
- Events & Exhibits
- Food & Drink
- Arts & Music
- Movies & TV
Q: Brrrrrr! Winter's coming soon, and the driver's window in my 2004 Nissan Altima won't close properly. It goes down normally with a touch of the button, but when I close it, the dang thing hits the top and bounces down about 4 inches. To get it closed, I have to tap the button over and over so it rises half-inch by half-inch. All other windows work fine. After three years of this, my wife thinks it's time to fix it. Can you help?
A: It seems the window safety switch thinks the glass has hit something - like fingers - before fully closing. This causes the window to reopen several inches to free any pinched pinkies.
Has any part of the power window system in that door ever been repaired, replaced or worked on? If the glass, window runs/tracks, motor or regulator has ever been serviced, the window travel limits must be adjusted. There is a limit switch built into the power window motor assembly, meaning the interior door trim must be removed to gain access.
The procedure to reset the window travel limits is simple. Bump the window to the fully closed position, as you've been doing. Then, press and hold the reset switch on the motor and lower the window to the fully open position. Release the reset switch and make sure it returns to its original position. Close the window - it should stop in the correct position.
Q: I have a 1998 Jeep Cherokee Sport that has a left rear driving light out. These are replacement LED bulbs. The light works when the brakes are applied, so I know the bulb is not burned out. I tried multiple bulbs including the original incandescent bulbs. Also, when connected to my boat trailer, neither of the LED trailer driving lights will work when my headlights are on, but both work when brakes are applied or hazards are on. The right rear driving light of my Jeep works properly. Any suggestions where I might start to troubleshoot?
A: According to my Alldata automotive database, the trailer wiring harness is connected to the left rear taillight harness. Start by checking the 10 amp fuse #7 in the junction box mounted in the passenger footwell. It provides power to the left rear running light and trailer lights. The harness connections for the left rear taillights and trailer lights are located in the left rear corner of the cargo area, as are the key ground connections for these circuits.
Q: I own a 2000 Buick Park Avenue Ultra. Last month I was driving the car up an exit ramp, and it simply quit. All the power stopped, and all dashboard indicator lights went out. I waited about five minutes, restarted the car and it went on fine. My regular mechanic couldn't find anything wrong, as it didn't happen when he took it for a test drive. I added an anti-vapor solution to the gas tank in case it was a vapor lock. It still continued to stall on intermittent trips. It always starts up again after a minute or two. I recently had the fuel filter changed. This past week, it stalled five times within a 10-mile radius. What do you think is wrong?
A: Since the instrument lights all go out when it stalls, I'd focus on an electrical issue. What other circumstance causes the car to stop running and all the indicator lights to go out? Turning off the key, of course. The possible culprits could be as simple as a poor quality connection at the battery, a ground connection, or a worn or faulty ignition switch. Next time it stalls, try wiggling the key while it's still in the "on" position - do the instrument lights flicker or come back on? That could indicate a problem with the ignition switch.
Email Paul Brand at email@example.com. Please explain the problem in detail and include a daytime phone number. Because of the volume of mail, we cannot provide personal replies.