Chaplin's impresses with New London chowder and more

How does one capture the flavor of New London? Its maritime roots obviously beg for seafood. Definitely a little salty, but not too gritty. Something traditional, maybe with a mix of ingredients thrown in for a colorful splash.

Jack Chaplin did it pretty successfully in his New London clam chowder, which he created for a competition at the Custom House (he won) and now serves at Chaplin's, his downtown restaurant serving mostly New England seafood classics.

Chaplin's, which took the place of Lucca Wine Bar and Grill last year, has become a successful part of the New London scene, from its participation in local events to the cooking videos Chaplin offers.

"If I make New England, people want Manhattan. If I make Manhattan, people want Rhode Island," Chaplin said in a video posted on Chaplin's Facebook page, explaining his New London chowder creation.

A sampling of the chowder was in order on a recent Friday night, when it was so crowded that our greeter seemed mildly annoyed when we said we'd wait. We packed into the small bar area, wedged between the open kitchen and the dining room, getting in the way until some seats opened up. The setup is a bit awkward, but there aren't many options in the rectangular space, and it shouldn't be a problem on a quieter night.

Large windows look onto Bank Street, and the walls are covered in a mix of modern art and gold-framed traditional paintings.

The menu is small - a good sign that a chef is not trying to do too much, but it could use some description of the dishes.

We were finally led to a table by a very pleasant waitress, and we sampled the New London chowder ($3 for a cup), which is more broth-based than creamy, but thicker than a Rhode Island style chowder. It gets a lot of flavor from bacon and salt pork - "Daddy Jack," as he's known, does not seem to shy away from butter and fat - plus garlic and onion. It's full of bits of clam, potatoes, tomatoes and red and orange bell peppers, tarragon and thyme.

The crab cake ($6) was thick with crabmeat and not too bready. It could have been a bit crispier, but it was flavorful, with onion and seasonings, as well as creamy dipping sauce that tasted homemade. The sauce in the mussels marinara ($7) was so tasty with garlic and onion - not too heavy on the red sauce - that we had to request some bread to sop it all up.

The entrees were disappointingly similar in appearance, with the same sides of mashed potatoes and vegetables, but the potatoes were creamy and garlicky and the carrots and zucchini seasoned.

The Parmesean crusted shrimp ($14) were breaded and crispy but a bit overcooked. The salmon picatta ($14) with a lemon butter sauce was flattened and breaded as a picatta should be, but the salmon flavor got a little lost in the mix. A special of flounder in a red pepper sauce was also enjoyable, but the crabmeat on top overpowered the flounder.

From the selection of homemade desserts, we sampled a lemony shortcake topped with strawberries and cream, both fresh and appropriately sweet, and a chocolate mousse that was fluffy and chocolate-y.

Food aside, though, one thing Daddy Jack knows is the personal touch of service. He visits with diners at the end of the night and sometimes even offers a small, complimentary after-dinner drink. Whether it's for perks like that or a specially-designed chowder, it's easy to see how Chaplin's brings in the weekend crowds.