Slow Food, Fast Growth

You've heard of fast food, but what do you know about slow food? Together with "locavore" and "foodie," the term's generated buzz in recent years, yet misconceptions about the slow food mission still abound. Slow Food Shoreline (SFS), the fledgling four-month-old local chapter of Slow Food International (SFI), has set out to dispel those myths. Its goal is to bring SFI's mantra of "good, clean, and fair food" to this area.

The first step, says SFS Chapter Leader Mike Cook, is helping people to realize that they can easily incorporate the principles of slow food into their daily lives.

"One of the things I've found is that people want to think of slow food the way they might think of organic, where there's this line in the sand and, if you cross the line," you're no longer part of the movement. "But checking off boxes or following a particular diet is not what makes a slow-food lifestyle. It's more of a direction-being thoughtful of the way you're eating; really just taking some time...and enjoying a meal" with others.

Conceiving of slow food "as the opposite of fast food" can be a useful launching pad to understanding the bigger picture, says Cook.

"Fast food is boring, chain-based food that's not interesting and that has no cultural or taste value...It's lacking in nutrition and it's unfairly impacting poorer communities...Slow food seeks to counteract the disappearance of our food culture that happens when we focus more on chain restaurants...If we're all going to Costco and T.G.I. Friday's instead" of independently run, locally sourced restaurants, the area's diversity is degraded.

Of course, independent eateries are usually more expensive than their chain counterparts, making them inaccessible to large segments of the population. Also, particularly in Connecticut, where a short growing season and lack of abundance drive up costs, supporting local farms and producers can prove difficult.

"Slow food is caught in this transition right now," explains SFS Community Outreach Chair Vanessa Lamers. "A big part of slow food is supporting our farmers...and it's hard to mesh that with extreme poverty-we want to be inclusive. We don't want to exclude those who can't afford to buy organic food."

Cook identifies the same central problem.

"Part of our mission is making sure that, for folks who do have choices and money, that they're voting with their dollars...But how do we make sure we're appreciating the farmers in the area and the independent restaurants that are keeping the traditions alive...while also helping folks that don't have the resources to enjoy [those things] to get enrichment from their food?"

This imperative has brought SFS's emphasis on social justice to the fore. As the group writes in its mission statement, its goal is "to promote good food that is created with care from healthy plants and animals, that is grown and harvested in ways which have a positive impact on the planet, and that is accessible to all, regardless of income."

Lamers says she believes this can be achieved through a balanced approach. In the coming months, SFS will host more expensive events, classes, and get-togethers. The proceeds will be used to fund free and low-cost community outreach efforts.

"We'll have our real foodie events where we'll get together and have happy hours and we'll go to really great, more expensive restaurants and talk to chefs, and we'll also have a table at the Peabody Museum's [upcoming] Big Food exhibit-family friendly, free, community education."

SFS also had a strong presence this past season at area farmers' markets, including those in Chester and in New Haven's Edgewood Park and Wooster Square.

Those interested in slow food can look forward to SFS-sponsored tastings showcasing local beers, wines, and even oysters, Cook adds. Also expect a whole-hog butchery class, a cheese tour, a clam dig in the Sound, and a wild-mushroom foraging outing. And there's the happy hour series, too. The group meets once a month at a different independent restaurant, bringing attention and business to purveyors on a slow weeknight.

Cook loves that these events "give us a chance to meet each other and make that social connection," adding that, while this area boasts many similarly minded organizations, "there's not a lot that's knitting it together."

SFS hopes to address that by becoming "the hub" for information on slow food and related causes. This Saturday will offer another possibility to come together and share knowledge when SFS hosts a free Slow Food Swap.

Described as "part silent auction/part village marketplace/part fun-loving open house," the swap is a chance to share "your homemade, homegrown, and foraged creations [as they] become your own personal currency for use in swapping with other participants."

Cook says a few dozen people have already signed up for the swap, and he hopes to see many others on Feb. 4. After all, members' input is crucial to this fast-growing Slow Food chapter.

"We get a lot of ideas from our members [for events and initiatives]...We're looking to keep that dialogue open."

Slow Food Shoreline hosts a Slow Food Swap on Saturday, Feb. 4 from 4 to 6 p.m. at Woodland Coffee & Tea, 1044 Chapel Street, New Haven. The event is free and open to anyone who brings something they made, grew, or foraged. Visit www.slowfoodshoreline.org or Like the organization on Facebook to learn more about this event.

Slow Food Shoreline seeks new members, as well as individuals willing to serve as community representatives. Contact slowfoodshoreline@gmail.com for more information.