We'll begin with some controversy: I have located what might be the greatest sausage and peppers grinder of all time.

I exaggerate only a little, as I'm fully aware that such assertions leave a person wide open to criticism in a region known for its dynamite Italian fare. Still, as someone whose sampled her share of sausage and peppers grinders - at fairs, festivals, and in Italian kitchens - I stand by my words and hereby direct you to Italian Express in New London.

Don't be fooled by its modest size and cozy location on Hamilton Street: the culinary wizardry afoot in the restaurant is a big deal.

Back to the sausage and peppers ($9.95; fed two easily): not only did the chef nail the pepper/onion element of the grinder - chopped well and allowed to stew long enough to deliver a delicious flavor base - but the sausage within is house-made, and it adds a tiny spice kick and just the right hit of fennel to the whole mix.

And I wasn't sure what to make of Italian Express's addition of cheese to this fairly basic grinder (also available without for $1 less), but I shall never question their wisdom again - cheese really does make everything better, particularly when it melds with a perfect grinder roll and those saucy peppers.

Topping off this great meal was a slice of Limoncello Mascarpone ($4.95) cake, one of Italian Express' many house-made desserts. We dubbed this citrus-y, creamy, cloud-like confection a literal slice of heaven. Try it yourself and see if you'll quibble over the grammar. (You won't.) My husband and eating partner is one of those bizarre people who isn't crazy about sweets, and even he concurred that the cake is something divine.

Another visit to Italian Express led me to some basics, one modern, one traditional: a slice of pizza and arancini, respectively. A "slice" is actually two pieces of pizza ($2.50), or a quarter of a standard pie, according to my server. For my sampling, I started simply with a basic cheese pie, and it was very good, with just the right amount of garlic kick on a thin, doughy and crispy crust topped with flavorful cheese and very good sauce.

Of course, that sauce is best enjoyed with the arancini - mine stuffed with a flavorful blend of salami, pepperoni and mozzarella ($5.75). The ample rice balls come with a hearty dollop of sauce, and the whole package could easily feed one person - probably because you'll want to soak up as much sauce as possible with eat bite of rice ball.

As for the sauce, it's bright, zesty and a little sweet with herbal notes throughout. It takes a lead role even in pasta dishes like the recent Baked Cheese Stuffed Tortellini special ($9.95; will feed two). Yes, the pasta pillows of cheese were very good, but paired with that sauce, the dish becomes something special and the perfect cold-day meal.

Speaking of which, if perhaps you'd like slightly lighter cold-day fare, wait for the pasta fagioli ($4.50) to show up in the daily soup rotation. This soup is an exercise in no-nonsense home-cooking - thick, with everything but the kitchen sink in it; most notably, sausage, pasta, chickpeas, carrots and beans. It's a protein-fest of epic proportions and it is very good, though not as garlic-y as some pasta fagiolis I've sampled before. Not a problem, when the rest of the mixture is so interesting.

Next time we get a batten-down-the-hatches snowfall, grab a wood-fired calzone from Italian Express: it will feed two very, very well, thereby eliminating the need to leave the house. The intriguing tomato calzone ($9) proved a fabulous choice - albeit one that left me and my car perfumed in garlic for the day. No worries there, of course, as the garlic only accented the tomato, ricotta, and basil filling, made all the more better by the garlic-knot texture of the calzone's exterior - soft and a little oily - grilled to perfection.

See a trend? Thus far Italian Express has offered delicious eats for just about any occasion. As the winter hibernation season gets fully under way, just know that some things are worth the trip away from the fireplace - and the goods at Italian Express are among them.

Italian Express

13 Hamilton St., New London

(860) 439-1444

www.italianexpressllc.com; menu updates available on their Facebook page

Cuisine: Its website says it best: “Traditional, homemade Italian food.” Takeout, prepared foods to go (by order) and catering available.

Atmosphere: Cheery and cozy (read: small) space allows for about four tables.

Service: Possibly the nicest folks on the planet.

Prices: One can eat like a king for less than $20. Pizzas start at $9.50 for a basic four-cheese pie. Generous grinders start at $8.95.

Reservations: Might be smart to call ahead on weekend nights.

Hours (winter): Monday-Friday, 8 a.m.-7 p.m.; Saturday, 9 a.m.-7 p.m. Closed Sunday.

Handicap access: Tight quarters getting into and within the building. Some parking available next to restaurant, but street parking seems the norm.

Credit cards: All majors