New London’s Exchange embraces new approach to service, food

October 29, 2015 12:00 am • Last Updated: October 29, 2015 12:25 pm

By Rick Koster
Day Arts/Features writer

We really like this new place on Bank Street in New London called the Exchange Bar & Grill.

Actually, located in the old Exchange Café building, the restaurant/bar has been open for several years, now. But there was a long period where the Exchange folks just wore us out. It’s a beautiful building on New London’s Bank Street, with a fine window view over the back deck of the Thames and, beyond, the Hanging Gardens of Electric Boat. In the context of a pub serving food, it seemed an ideal spot to hang out.

Problem was, the service was serially bad. I’m talking about a few-years’ period in which we went, with increasingly large gaps between visits, probably four or five times — and we just couldn’t get waited on. I can’t tell you whether the food was good during that era because I couldn’t order any. It was paranoia-inducing; I started doing that “armpit sneak-sniff” maneuver, wondering if somehow I was redolent of a goat- or charnel pit. Was it always a popular late-night party spot? Sure. But that’s only one aspect of what they supposedly offered.

We gave up.

Flash forward to this past summer, when trusted pals started talking about how solid the Exchange food was and what a friendly staff worked there. Hmm. Had things changed this profoundly? Cautiously, during the I AM Festival, I popped in and grabbed a beer at the U-shaped bar and — presto! — the service was competent and happy during a relative crush.

Next up? A solo lunch experiment. Again, the staff couldn’t have been more welcoming. I only ordered three beef tacos ($8.99), but they were large, packed some sneaky heat, came in fresh and crisp corn tortilla shells with just-chopped lettuce and tomato — and I was impressed. My fountain Diet Coke was constantly topped off, and a request for some green olives was quickly granted.

Finally, it was time for the big test. My wife Eileen — aka The Vegetarian Who Walks Among Us (TVWWAU) — and I invited our pals Kim and Mike — aka Mike and Kim — to join us for dinner.

The place was clean and moderately crowded with a diverse early evening crowd. Interesting architectural thought: the terrazzo tile floors seem to angle slightly towards the epicenter of the building as though the original design focused on a central drain or something? In any case, it makes all of the tables and booths slightly off-kilter. This is not a deal breaker, just an observation. Have a beer and equilibrium returns! It’s magic!

The walls are pumpkin, the ceiling terra cotta, and the handsome concrete bar sits atop glass bricks. There are enough large screen televisions scattered about to probably ensure even a Saints game.

The four of us arrived just before shift-change; nonetheless, our before-and-after service was hands-on and e’er-smiling throughout the meal. The menu is small and covers pub food basics with a bit of creative flair. There are appetizers, daily specials, Mexican and pizza, burgers, wraps, salads and seafood options mostly limited to the simple possibilities of fried fish.

To start, we tried jalapeno poppers ($7.99) and Buffalo Bites ($6.99). All four of us were fooled by the former; we thought they’d been made on-site. Our waitress confided they were frozen. Fair enough. They were still packed with heat and seductive, gooey cheese. The Bites are made to order and are a Bank Street triumph despite no accompanying blue cheese dipping sauce. Boneless hunks of chicken breast are quick fried in a batter drizzled with a slightly sweet and decidedly Asian element. Yes, there was the spicy and titular “Buffalo” component to the chicken, but the whole construct was different and delicious. I could eat an order as a meal and be happy.

To the main courses!

Alas, TVWWAU didn’t have a lot of options. There was a vegetable wrap but she went with a Gorgonzola salad ($9.99). Nothing special; it came as advertised and was a large serving and fine.

Next? A grilled Chicken Ranch wrap ($10.99). The flour tortilla was very fresh, as was the lettuce/tomato roughage, and the tender pullet hunks therein had a vinaigrette marinade that once again added a different and welcome quality. Excellent and seasoned fries accompanied.

A Mexican Burger ($12.99) was a half-pound of juicy beef enveloped by a perfectly seared exterior. A fat dollop of Texas-worthy chili sat atop, along with black olives, house-made salsa, melted Swiss (my request) and crunched up tortilla chips. For structural purposes, the top half of the bun, supporting tomato and lettuce, was served to one side. I didn’t even try to assemble the whole thing but just attacked with a fork. Beautiful!

The pizzas always have been famous at the Exchange — or so we’d heard. And, indeed, a four-cheese pie ($12.99) was a near-masterpiece. The hand-tossed wonder came out in a charmingly irregular shape, carefully burned around the edges and with a consistency perfectly at home between thin- and thick-crust. Atop? A Twister game happily played out by provolone, cheddar, mozzarella and Parmesan. Delicious.

With a focus on food and service to go along with the late-night fun component, the Exchange has added a welcome dimension.