Enjoying a charmed experience at Zack's Bar & Grille

May 11, 2016 12:00 am • Last Updated: May 11, 2016 2:07 pm

Zack's Bar & Grille in Stonington Borough feels just as much a time capsule as a place to stop in for a drink and bite to eat. Hidden alongside the Amtrak line and below the bridge that runs over it, it's the type of authentic haunt you have to know about already or go looking for.

It's located in the first floor of an old Victorian home painted what's now a faded green. The interior looks like it's not been updated in years, and surely any Zack's loyalist would scoff at the suggestion that it should be.

The atmosphere is timeless in a way that will make you feel nostalgic or wistful, depending on the night. The lighting is dim; the tables and chairs are a dark wood; there's an old green carpet in the dining room; and white Christmas lights accent a stocked bar that's bookended by two television sets mounted on the wall.

In the dining room, you'll find historic photos of the building; framed letters from a couple of satisfied customers, including one whose grandparents once lived there; and a poster for the film "Mystic Pizza," which, according to my waitress, features scenes shot in the restaurant when it operated under a different name.

Given the location and time of year, I arrived with seafood in mind on my first trip but found the options wider than I expected: roasted half duckling ($23.99), prime rib au jus (14 ounce, $22.99; 20 ounce, $29.99; served Friday and Saturday only), and, from the specials list, a Cajun grilled pork tenderloin topped with fried onion and a port wine reduction ($22.99).

Fish and crustaceans could be found throughout the lists of appetizers, entrees, lighter plates, and specials: clams casino ($10.99), crab cakes ($12.99), scallops wrapped in bacon ($14.99), seafood pot pie ($24.99), seafood stew ($25.99), and fish and chips ($14.99).

The specials written up on the chalkboard the day I visited were almost impossible to pass up, and so I ordered mostly from there. This included a grilled scallops appetizer served with chipotle aioli ($14.99), linguine and shrimp served with spinach, caramelized onions, and tomatoes in a Madeiran cream sauce ($25.99), and pan seared swordfish prepared with lemon butter ($26.99).

The grilled scallops, which had an almost barbeque-like taste to them, came with four medium-sized scallops that were beautifully caramelized and served with small dollops of smoky chipotle aioli atop them.

The linguine with large, plump shrimp was the most impressive entree of the night. It was an orchestra of texture and flavor, yet nothing seemed to jump out and overpower any other ingredient. The sweet caramelized onions, the tomatoes and the spinach were all nicely incorporated together by the smooth and rich Madeira cream sauce. The shavings of Parmesan that came in a cup on the side should also be given their due for adding a distinctive and sharp flavor.

The swordfish was a classic, no-frills-and-no-surprises plate, with maybe the exception of one detail: the mashed potatoes I ordered as a side came with sour cream and horseradish whipped in. The swordfish was moist and buttery, the lemon and parsley providing the most notable undertones. It came with green beans that were cooked firm and crisp and complemented the creamy smooth potatoes with their mild hints of horseradish.

From the regular menu, I also tried the lobster bisque ($5.99 for a cup; $6.99 for a bowl), and the baked codfish ($16.99) from the lighter entrees section. Both were good and tasty options for seafood traditionalists. The bisque was thick and creamy, the lobster blended in smooth to the soup. The cod came with a large filet, topped with buttery breadcrumbs, and a choice of starch side (I went with the wild rice over mashed potatoes or thick fries).

Come dessert, I found it impossible to pass up my chance at the Reese's peanut butter pie ($5.99 a slice), a satisfying mix of crumbled and buttery Oreo crust, rich peanut butter cream base, chunks of peanut butter cup and drizzles of chocolate sauce and caramel. It was chocolatey and rich, the perfect ending to a meal for anyone who's managed to save the room.

Service at Zack's was gracious and warm. We were seated immediately, and our food came out promptly and as ordered, beginning with my bisque served piping hot and a complimentary basket of warm and crusty dinner rolls. We were never wanting for more water, and our server was more than happy to dispense her knowledge about the menu and establishment.

It was a charmed experience, all and all, well worth the trouble of navigating my way around the train tracks and over to their parking lot with ample spaces. Indeed, I think the next time I'll certainly have no trouble getting back.