Mayo.

In the interest of providing a comprehensive and fair review of Castello of Niantic, I want to make sure to include the negative as well as the positive.

That’s it: mayo.

Y’see, on a lunch stop, I tried one of their otherwise tasty Italian grinders which, for some reason, in addition to the requisite (and fresh and generous) portions of salami, capicola, sopressata, provolone, lettuce and tomato, the menu description included mayonnaise instead of oil. Odd, but it was easy enough for me to ask that they hold it. Only, they didn’t. The sandwich was fairly slathered with mayonnaise. I scraped most of it off and carried on — and it was fine.

So there you have it. Over two visits at and some take-home from Castello of Niantic — there’s also a location in Meriden — this is all I have to say in a negative sense.

Oh, wait — and “Godfather” music over the house sound system!

I know, I know: it’s an Italian restaurant. At the same time, there was plenty of other atmospheric music in the background to reinforce the ethnicity of the place, pieces like Jack Jezzro’s “From the Bottom of My Heart” and “Innamorata” by a Sicilian named Jeff Steinberg. But then came a mid-dinner-appetizer one-two punch of “Love Theme from the Godfather” and “Main Title (The Godfather Waltz).” Now, if you’re a male born any time after 1985, you’ve seen “The Godfather” at least 30 times and, as such, this music is imprinted like a biker tattoo. If I’m eating and the music comes on, I expect Michael Corleone to shoot me in the throat.

Anyway, in the case of Castello, everything else about our experiences was outstanding. It’s located at Pattagansett and Hope streets in a small structure that’s housed numerous restaurants over the years. A cashier counter/hostess stand is angled perpendicular to a large, open dining room in comforting tones of sand and chocolate, with black wooden chairs and tables arranged to provide a bit of space. Outside is a pleasant wooden deck from whence diners can see the school across the street adorned with those huge, colorful fish sculptures by local artist William Kovel.

It was early Sunday evening, but the place rapidly filled with what appeared to be a lot of folks from the Black Point section of the neighborhood. Very summer vacation-y in apparel and relaxed countenance.

Service on both visits was quick, practiced and cordial. Our drinks and water glasses were refilled with routine efficiency.

Appetizer choices and soups/salads ($4-$13.50) run the gamut from the obligatory items like antipasto and pasta fagioli to inventive twists such as Frito Misto — a mishmash of shrimp, scallops, calamari, asparagus, red onion and cherry peppers. There are also the aforementioned grinders, calzones and terrific pizza ($6-$19).

Anticipating some heavyweight main dish choices, we stayed light and tried the wonderful bruschetta ($8). As with all of our servings, it was a lovely presentation. There were five thick slices of chewy bread, delicately toasted and misted with extra virgin olive oil — and each was hand-crafted with a potpourri of diced, just-out-of-the-garden tomatoes and onion, and redolent of basil. But the bonus zing — tiny cubes of smoked cheese and sun-dried tomato bits — made this a work of art and a fine way to start the evening.

The main portion of the menu is divided between classic and modern entrees ($15-$23). The former includes Cavatelli with Rabe & Sausage; Lasagna; Little Necks & Linguini; chicken or shrimp scampi, and so on. From the modern roster, dishes like Cavatelli with Short Rib Ragu; Stonington Scallops with bacon, asparagus and roasted and sundried tomato risotto; and Faroe Island Salmon prepared with spinach, garlic puree and beluga lentils indicate the scope of the creativity.

We both were intrigued by the “moderns.” My wife Eileen asked for a Polenta Portabella Stack ($16) and received a sizable bowl of creamy polenta — “honestly among the best I’ve ever had,” sayeth she — festooned with slices of tomato and eggplant, mozzarella and spears of asparagus. Glancing at it on presentation — complete with a colorful decorative lily — she opined it was plentiful enough for two meals. Then couldn’t stop.

Her lack of will was something with which I sympathized after receiving my own huge bowl of Lobster Pappardelle ($23). Gorgeous chunks of lobster claw and tail meat floated in a luxuriant tomato/butter cream sauce, bobbing in the wake of my spoon along with the broad pasta noodles, white beans, peas and coins of potato. It was a sort of absurdly rich and delicious ballet of calories.

Noting a steady takeout biz at the front door, we decided to double down and get some stuff to go. From the classics section, Eileen tried the Eggplant Parmigiani ($18) and I explored the Calabrese Pizza ($16 and $18).

The pizza was sensational, with a brittle thin crust yet strong enough to anchor a great medley of fresh mozz, sausage, hot peppers and a perfect surface glistening of olive oil. Warning: the peppers are indeed incendiary, but it’s amazing. The Parm was likewise excellent, and Eileen marveled over the very thin slices of ‘plant that provided a crisp texture and bolts of flavor within the overall cheesy construct.

Yes, our part of the world, culinarily speaking, is very Italian-centric. But Castello of Niantic is well worth your time.