If you asked me a year ago what the Velvet Mill is, I'd have guessed the nickname for some NBA player with an outside shot so smooth fans and commentators came to observe "The guy produces velvet so consistently he's a Velvet Mill." 

That was until, of course, I discovered the multi-use, former industrial space tucked into a corner of Stonington Borough that goes by the aforementioned title. The number and variety of small businesses at the mill are impressive — from small artist shops and photo and print studios to organic body care to garden supplies to antiques and clothing options.

There's also a fine selection of locally owned food and drink establishments that, while not super-abundant in number, are various enough to spend a good chunk of a day ambling around and tasting.

Below is a list of some of the highlights from a few of my recent trips. One note of caution: if you really want to take in the full Velvet Mill gastronomic experience, go on a Saturday; the small batch selections offered here can be a little picked over if you wait until the end of the weekend. 

Zest Fresh Pastry

zestfreshpastry.com

(860) 381-0771

The first thing visitors walking into the Velvet Mill are likely to notice is the smell of freshly baked — or baking — scones, cookies, brownies, cupcakes and more, wafting out into the halls from Zest Fresh Pastry, located just to the left after coming in the main entrance.

Zest has been open several years, specializing in high-quality bakery items and pastries. In addition to the mill locale, Zest baked goods can be found at farmers markets, festivals, and local restaurants. At the Velvet Mill location, the thing to do is stop in and sit a while with a treat and a caffeinated beverage. 

A few things I tried and can recommend are the cannoli cupcake ($3), key lime blueberry white chocolate blondie ($3), and leek, Gruyere and walnut scone ($3).

The cannoli cupcake tasted just as you might imagine: sweet and rich vanilla cannoli filling atop a corn meal-base cupcake, dipped in classic chocolate chips; very yum. The blondie also had the same from-scratch appeal and a compelling mix of flavors, none of which overpowered any other. The savory scone was a well-conceived breakfast or snack-time pastry, with large cuts of leek, the periodic crunch of walnut, and subtle hints of Gruyere.

The Velvet Vine Restaurant and Wine Bar

thevelvetvine.com

(860) 415-8446

The Velvet Vine has a decor and atmosphere that feels contemporary yet cozy. Old industrial elements, such as a pair of old I-beams and a salvaged wood rafter that serve as a decorative canopy above the bar, accent the dining area. While specializing in local and international wines, Velvet Vine also serves up several specialty drinks from its fully stocked bar.

That said, at least at lunch time, the place feels less like an adults-only hideout for vino aficionados and more like an eclectic and lively European cafe, as suited to a family stopping in for a bite to eat as it is the unaccompanied wine-connoisseur nursing a glass of red at the bar, lamenting loves lost and dreams deferred. 

The house-made soups, charcuterie plates, and grilled Paninis stand out on this menu. I had the pleasure of trying the French lentil and black bean burger ($10), a very large — messy toward the end — and flavorful burger topped with lettuce, tomato and a deliciously well-chosen red pepper aioli, served atop warm and soft rosemary focaccia.

Equally impressive and savory was the special Brie and pesto grilled cheese ($10) and veggie chili ($5). The Velvet Vine is also a brunch option on the weekend, serving the likes of challah French toast ($8), a bagel and lox plate ($14), and huevos rancheros ($9). I tried the special breakfast burrito ($8) with fluffy scrambled eggs, black beans, tomatoes, corn, and cheddar cheese. 

Cheese Boro Whey

cheeseborowhey.com

(860) 235-9654

Bring along a pen and pad of paper when you stop into Cheese Boro Whey, because, not only are you gonna sample some delicious cheeses, you are going to get an education in rennet, enzymes, and pasteurization from the expert staff here.

For instance, ever hear of quark cheese? It's Germanic, warmed to a satisfying curdle, and apparently a crowd favorite. What's the deal with farm cheese? Essentially, it's pre-aged cheddar? Whoa!

Made on premise in a certified dairy kitchen, the cheeses here are exceptionally fresh. Try a sample of the ricotta, and you may find yourself unable to live with the grocery store variety anymore. I purchased a container of feta and farm cheese to go, priced at $4.50 for 6 ounces and $9 for 12 ounces, respectively.

The feta was piquant and not overly crumbly, perfect over a salad or just to nibble on independently. The farm cheese, soft with subtle hints of its would-be cheddar future, went well in a baguette as a simple sandwich.

Beer'd Brewing Co.

beerdbrewing.com

(860) 857-1014

One curious thing you'll come across at the Velvet Mill is the periodic sight of bearded, 30-something, flannel-sporting men walking through the atrium carrying six-packs (or more) and growlers of beer.

No, you did not happen to stop in on the same day as the World Beard and Moustache Championships, and this is not the training facility for Beard Team USA. What you are witnessing is the loyal following for Beer'd Brewing Co. 

The space for Beer'd Brewing feels a little like a magical backyard party transported into an indoor beer garden, with multi-colored lights dangling from the ceiling and beer-drinkers casually chatting while sipping on stouts, IPAs and blonde ales.

Beer'd has an interesting, even admirable, concept, and the bartenders are more than eager to talk about it. They brew small batches, which are kept on tap before the next rounds are ready. You can have a drink inside or fill up growlers to go. (Canned varieties are also available.)

Some noteworthy brews are the Crack-Of-Noon espresso, Whisker'd Wit with mango puree, Rolling Coal smoked beer, and Barrel Aged Roulette Russian imperial stout. (But what's available is going to depend on when you visit.)