May I have some more corned beef hash?

Corned beef hash
Corned beef hash

Apparently, I did not get the memo when The Broken Yolk Café in New London changed ownership, dropped "Broken" from its name and became pretty much one of the greatest brunch places around.

Where have I been? The corned beef hash. Nobody. Does. It. Better. Gimme. More.

Freshly shredded potatoes, perfectly crisped up and crunchy, with juicy, mustardy, hearty chunks of corned beef. Flavorful but not ridiculously salty. Cooked throughout but never mushy. This is how it's done, and this is how it's so often not done, in restaurants that serve up the canned variety.

This place, at 825 Montauk Ave., has an expansive menu for such a small place in the middle of a residential area where seating is mostly at the counter, around the kitchen. You're so close to where your food is being prepared that you could almost reach over and pluck some hash right off the griddle. There are also a handful of booths, but get there on the early side – by 11 a.m. on a weekday, the restaurant was packed. Also, pick just three of your best friends to come with you, as the four of you will barely fit in the tiny booths, and you'll need room for your bellies to expand.

I got the shirred eggs – three eggs baked with tomatoes, scallions and cheddar cheese – with a side of home fries and some delicious cranberry-walnut toast, buttered just right. (You get to pick the kind of toast you want.) You don't see shirred eggs on brunch menus very often, and I loved that my dish tasted clean and fresh, not greasy the way some brunch eggs do. But I was envious of my dining companion's huevos rancheros, which came stuffed with arepas (Latin American cornmeal pancakes) instead of the usual corn tortillas. That little twist made all the difference. My friends' veggie lovers' omelettes looked good, too.

You can get either breakfast or lunch, no matter the time (they're open 'til 2 p.m. and are closed Mondays). Be sure to check out their specials. They sounded good, but I had so many options to choose from that my brain couldn't make it past the main menu.

I'll see you there.

Shirred eggs with cranberry-walnut toast
Shirred eggs with cranberry-walnut toast

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