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    Tuesday, April 16, 2024

    Food flashback: Our food writers recall recent reviews

    Pineapple Curry with Salmon from Noodles & Rice Bistro in New London (Rick Koster/The Day)
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    Noodles & Rice Bistro

    165 Bank St., New London

    (860) 443-4444

    I don't think the phrase "New Londoners" rolls off the tongue in as pleasing a fashion as if we called ourselves "New Londonians." Having established that, let me say that we New Londonians seem to enjoy Thai food — which explains why we have three very good Thai restaurants within a few blocks of one another on Bank Street.

    Firmly established are the Lazy Leopard and Jasmine Thai, and the newcomer in this group is Noodles & Rice Bistro. We recently made a few very happy visits to Noodles & Rice Bistro, and everything, from the food and service to the atmosphere and presentation, was more than pleasing.

    Of the many appetizers and entrees we sampled, though, a few truly stood out. A blackboard special (don't worry, it's a special a LOT) of Pineapple Curry with Salmon ($22, also available in duck and steak versions) was exemplary. Combining generous slices of traditional and exotic vegetables, separately arrayed around the north rim of the plate, with a brick of beautifully fresh salmon in a luxuriant pineapple sauce, the dish invites you to pick and choose from the ingredients to craft each bite for a different flavor collision. Steamed white rice on the side adds more possibilities.

    Also, the Pad See Ew with Tofu ($12, also available with chicken or vegetables, shrimp for $15 and steak for $14) stole my wife's heart — on Valentine's Week, no less! Featuring wide, flat and toothsome noodles as a solid base, the recipe includes al dente broccoli, squiggles of delicious bok choy, sliced carrots, egg and a rich, sweet and dark soy sauce ladled over  chunks of tender tofu.

    — Rick Koster

    Los Charros Cantina

    30 Main St., Centerbrook

    (860) 237-4266

    loscharroscantina.com

    Until recently, my mental image of the town of Essex included the standards: ye olde taverns, the Connecticut River and boats upon it, perhaps the resident giant groundhog Essex Ed.

    Now that we can add taqueria to that landscape, I'm charmed by this historic town anew.

    Granted, Los Charros Cantina is in the Centerbrook section of town, but let's not quibble because if you're a fan of authentic street tacos and other Mexican fare, you won't mind the lack of river views.

    Take note that Los Charros is the sister restaurant to The Essex, the signage for which you'll see out front first. Park around back and you'll see the door for Los Charros.

    Step inside and enjoy super fresh tacos that go beyond the standard chicken and beef options you'll find elsewhere. Think Choriqueso (a mix of ground pork, three cheese and chorizo spice at $10); Shrimp Curtido ($12); and Short Rib Barbacoa ($12).

    If you try nothing else at Los Charros, try the short rib tacos. Other non-taco small plates won raves as well, including the spicy Chiliquillas Verde ($12) and an excellent take on Pozole ($7). Save room for a margarita ($8), because they, too, are terrific and you'll likely want to toast your good choice of restaurant once you dive into your meal.

    —Marisa Nadolny

    The Whistle Stop

    15 Palmer St., Pawcatuck

    (860) 599-9998

    A longtime Pawcatuck eatery, The Whistle Stop is one of those places where locals know they can get a quick, hearty and affordable breakfast in the worn dining room that has served customers for as long as I can remember.

    But there's more than breakfast at The Whistle Stop, including Greek cuisine served at lunch and for dinner on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays. Is the food gourmet? No, but it's ample, flavorful, served piping hot when it needs to be, and a very good value. We went for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and sampled a bit of everything.

    The Greek dishes include Chicken Souvlaki, Shrimp Scampi, Eggplant Rollatini, Spanikopita, and more. Service when we were there was fast and friendly and the portions generous. We would have liked a bit more spice in our dinner dishes, but just the same, they were tasty and the scampi and rollatini a real bargain at less than $14.

    Omelets at breakfast are served with toast and home fries, and sides of sausage or bacon are just a couple dollars. There's other standard breakfast fare, too, and the coffee was hot and strong and our waitress quick to refill our mugs.

    Located in a residential neighborhood and adjacent to the railroad tracks that carry Amtrak's Northeast Corridor trains, The Whistle Stop is aptly named. Inside, it's decorated with railroad art and memorabilia, and two of the times that we visited, railroad workers were dining there.

    It's not fancy, but The Whistle Stop is a good place to go for a hearty, affordable meal.

    — Ann Baldelli

    A Whistle Stop omelet (Ann Baldelli/Special to The Day)

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