Log In


Reset Password
  • MENU
    Food
    Tuesday, April 23, 2024

    With delicious food, Woodfellas is making its mark

    One Eyed Cody Pizza  — classic cheese with sausage, red peppers, onions (Ann Baldelli)

    A friend who is a terrific chef and foodie mentioned that he’d gotten salad, pizza and wings delivered this summer and that the food was very, very good.

    “It was from Woodfellas, the new place at the Velvet Mill,” he said.

    Two weeks later, out on a boat with friends and unsure what to do about dinner, we called up Woodfellas’ website on our phone and checked the menu before calling to ask, “Will you deliver to a boat at a dock?”

    Woodfellas does deliver to Stonington borough homes and businesses, as well as nearby beaches, marinas and vineyards for orders $30 or more, plus a $2 fee. It’s worth every penny.

    Honestly, I can’t remember everything we got the night we had dinner onboard, but I know it included a Hughie’s Love Salad ($8.95), a Sea of Shogun pizza ($15), and a combination of boneless and bone-in wings.

    The salad, a knock-off of the venerated Love Salad at the former Hughie’s in New London, is a commendable, garlic-loaded imitation. It’s a big serving of iceberg lettuce, tomatoes, genoa and provolone, dressed with red wine vinegar, olive oil, black pepper, and parmesan, and like the menu says, “garlic, garlic, garlic.”

    The offering would likely get a nod of approval from the late Emma Devlin, matriarch of the original Hughie’s and the one who took home bags of garlic from the restaurant to peel the cloves.

    The Sea of Shogun pizza was outstanding, too. The dough — which I will get to shortly — was topped with mozzarella cheese, garlic-sautéed shrimp, tomatoes, and basil. We ate every bite of it, not even saving a crust for the seagulls.

    We knew right then we’d be back for more at Woodfellas, and since we were curious about who was running the place and how it came to find a home at the Velvet Mill, we decided to pay a visit and eat there.

    Woodfellas is predominantly takeout, but there are two tables, situated on a loading dock adjacent to the restaurant counter and kitchen and overlooking the parking lot and a pond. We went early on a Friday evening, and the place was a frenzy of activity. Non-stop, customers came by for takeout, and occasionally, employees left to make deliveries in the borough, or at Beer’d Brewery, also in the Velvet Mill.

    Later, Woodfellas owner Robert Currier shared the reason for the deliciousness of his pizza crust, explaining that Beer’d beer goes into it. That was reason enough to order another pizza. As much as we had enjoyed the Shogun, this time we got the Zoey Bear ($15), which was topped with Thai peanut chicken, cheddar Jack cheese, roasted garlic, basil, and ranch dressing. The woman working the counter told us, “It’s to die for,” and while I wouldn’t quite die for a pizza, it was different and really good. The crust, perfectly browned and crisped, was light and flavorful — so much so, it was worth the carb-overload.

    Currier, it turns out, is not new to the restaurant business. He’s been at it for more than a decade, with eateries in Salem, Gales Ferry, Norwich, and Groton — most notably The Rolling Tomato, his wood-fired pizza shop that has both mobile and a brick and mortar location.

    His passion for food, according to his website, is a gift from his mother, Babe, a single parent and career waitress who worked at a slew of former New London restaurants, including Hughie’s, the 95 House, Royal Diner, Anthony’s Steam Carriage, and Lighthouse Inn — which have all been shuttered but are still New London legends.

    Currier came out to greet us the night we dined on his loading dock and explained the crust and the wood-fired pizza oven contribute to the lusciousness of his pies. The shop’s counter is built over bins, where the split wood that fuels the brick oven is stacked, and Currier said it’s cut to a precise size for his restaurant.

    We had studied the menu before we got there and decided we would try a little of everything, so we were disappointed when we learned they were out of the whiskey-battered onion rings ($6.95). We persevered, forging on to the chicken wings, which are advertised as wood-fired and “always fresh, never frozen.”

    We opted for a half dozen of the bone-in Garlic Parmesan wings ($5.95) and four of the Siracha boneless wings ($6.95.) I’ve never been keen on boneless wings because they’re usually overcooked and dry, but not here. They were moist and tasteful and are available in a variety of flavors and sizes. It’s the same with the bone-in wings; you can get a few, or a lot, in sauces including Teriyaki, bourbon molasses, sweet red chili, honey barbecue, Thai peanut, Buffalo, and mango habanero.

    We also ordered the Spinach & Gorgonzola Salad ($8.95), a generous portion of baby spinach, bacon, tomato, red onion, mushrooms, and gorgonzola, served with a balsamic vinaigrette. No complaints at all, and we agreed we will order it again.

    We had more than enough food — there were just two of us — but believed it was necessary to sample at least one of the “Tuscani” sandwiches. It was a struggle to decide which, but my dinner partner wanted more bacon, so we opted for the small Benji’s Melt ($6.95), a decadent combination of cheddar and mozzarella with tomatoes and bacon on rosemary bread. We quickly devoured it, and debated what we might try on our next visit — the Mad Maxx, with warm roast beef, red peppers, onions, mushrooms, cheddar and horseradish sauce ($9.95 for the small) or the Rocky Mountain Girl, with baby spinach, breaded eggplant, tomato, artichoke hearts, black olives, onions, feta cheese and a balsamic dressing ($9.95 small).

    There is a lot to choose from at Woodfellas — 11 sandwiches that come large or small, 17 white pizzas, 17 red pizzas, two salads, starter breads, wings, and appetizers, such as Mac & Cheese Balls ($6.95) or Fried Pickle Spears ($6.95).

    If you prefer gluten-free, any of the pizzas can be modified.

    When Currier visited our table, he wanted to know how everything was and what we liked best, and as we chatted, he told us he’d like to expand and add more tables. He does a brisk business with the brewery customers, he said, and clearly, from our personal observation, he does a lot of takeout.

    Everything we had, minus the calories, was delicious. And the most expensive thing on the menu is $15. Woodfellas is a great addition to the Velvet Mill.

    Love salad (Ann Baldelli)
    Exterior of Woodfellas (Ann Baldelli)

    Woodfellas Wood-Fired Pizza & Wings

    The Velvet Mill, 22 Bayview Ave., Stonington 

    (860) 715-9663

    Find them on Facebook: Woodfellas Pizza & Wings

    Atmosphere: Industrial. The restaurant is in a mill that once produced velvet and employed many of Stonington’s Portuguese. It’s been converted to artist studios, business space, and hosts the town’s wintertime farmers market. Woodfellas is predominantly takeout, but there are a couple tables on an adjacent loading dock, and it’s an adventure to dine there and people-watch.

    Alcohol: Beer’d Brewing is close by in the same building, and Woodfellas will deliver there or you can carry your food over.

    Hours: Wednesday to Sunday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.

    Service: We’ve gotten takeout and eaten in, and both times it’s been quick.

    Prices: Range from about $7 to $15. 

    Credit cards: Yes, they take them.

    Handicapped access: There are handicapped accessible entry points into the Velvet Mill, although we didn’t see one directly outside Woodfellas.

    Comment threads are monitored for 48 hours after publication and then closed.