Shoreliners might recall the quirky restaurant called Creative Cooking on Route 1 in Westbrook. Subtitled “New Orleans Restaurant,” it filled a giant void in the Connecticut food scene with its menu of Cajun and Creole dishes. When the restaurant closed and the lights at its distinctive, expansive building dimmed, a new void emerged.

From the purple, green, and gold ashes emerges a worthy successor, a gastro pub called Braise & Brew that’s drawn its own fan base thanks to its imaginative, hearty menu and bustling bar.

Craft beer gets the star treatment at B&B, and when the beer is a-flowin’ it really makes sense to pair it with a few apps, including B&B’s Warm Bavarian Pretzels ($8) off the Small Plates menu. Served with Fat Tire beer and cheddar cheese sauce, it’s a tough call to determine which aspect is best: the buttery, pretzel or the smooth, nuanced sauce. Each part offers something to love: perfect pretzel texture, with a lightly crisp exterior and soft, toothy interior; and tasty notes of bright cheddar balanced by earthy beer flavors. We’ll call it a draw and will not judge you if you save an extra cheese sauce for subsequent dipping.

On another very hungry night, we couldn’t pass up the Smoked Mac & Cheese Bites ($8), and what they lacked in looks (think stubby mozzarella sticks) got a nice boost from the overall flavor and texture. The smoked Gouda and cheddar cheese filling and panko crumb coating merge together well, and the combo does well without the accompanying ranch dipping sauce. While we enjoyed the bites, we were somewhat underwhelmed by what sounded like a surefire hit.

Our samplings of main dishes covered impressive ground thanks to the clever culinary creations on the sandwich and entrée menus. For example, the Pizza’Dilla ($15), one of three quesadilla options that turns the traditional type on its head. Funny name aside, this dish is no-joke delicious, from the expert grilling to the delicious combination of fresh tomatoes, mozzarella cheese, arugula, and prosciutto within. The arugula adds complexity to the package without overwhelming it with its characteristic bite. The prosciutto brought all the layers together — bright tomato, mellow cheese, and bitter green — in salty unity. One note: I lost more than a few of the tomatoes that hadn’t fully melded with the cheese. Not a big deal, but have your fork ready for the cleanup.

The mister picked out another winner with his choice of Braised Pork Panini ($12; comes with fries), a combo of slow-braised pork shoulder, caramelized onions, stewed apples, and melted Gruyere served between flavorful slices of grilled crusty bread. If you want to know what the holiday season in the Northeast tastes like, try this dish because its smart curation presents a symphony of flavor and texture. It’s fairly rich but so palate-pleasing you’ll not want to leave any behind.

On that same hungry night noted above, we went all out and picked two entrees that had intrigued us in preliminary research: the Beef Barbacoa entrée ($25) and the Braised Chicken Stew ($16). After all, at a place called Braise & Brew, it does behoove a person to try the fruits, so to speak, of the brasier.

I’ve only encountered Beef Barbacoa at Mexican eateries, but you really can’t go wrong with tender, slow-cooked beef, particularly when it’s served B&B style. That means the beef is flavored with citrus and chili pepper and served in a base of quinoa and brown rice, potatoes, roasted corn and black beans, and cilantro. (Our server described it as Spanish-style beef stew.) Once again, we faced a conundrum: which was the best part? Answer: all of them. Spectacular spicing in the beef left me with a light sweat on the brow. Once the heat is tempered with the very hearty starches and legumes, you’ll go diving back in for more of the burn. And while beef is the star ingredient, the supporting cast offers distinctive layers of flavor and texture that deserve a nod.

The Braised Chicken Stew offers a similar hearty and excellent experience with less heat, a little more saltiness, and loads of flavor thanks to thigh and leg meat and a dash of saffron — both of which amplify the accompanying base of black beans, faro, quinoa, braised onions and potatoes.

Let’s just say both dishes presented enough nutritional interest to keep two foodies talking about them long after dinner had concluded. And that conversation included our plan to head back to B&B for more pleasant surprises in the near future.

Braise & Brew

1835 Boston Post Road, Westbrook

(860) 399-8888

www.braisenbrew.com

Cuisine: Billed as a “gastro pub,” Braise & Brew offers updated pub fare for brunch and dinner; craft beer fans likely will appreciate the expansive list of local (and beyond) beers. Note: As the “Braise” suggests, this is a meat-lover’s kind of menu.

Service: Friendly and accommodating

Hours: Tuesday-Thursday, 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m.; Sunday, 11:30 a.m.-8 p.m.

Atmosphere: The restaurant occupies one floor of a large, old, home-y multi-level building (formerly the “New Orleans restaurant” called Creative Cooking). Choose from a plush booth or comfortable high-top the bar area or more intimate dining rooms decked in bold tones, art, and fun bric a brac. Outdoor seating on the large, covered, well-appointed front porch will be hoppin’ come springtime.

Prices: Not cheap, not outrageous. Sandwiches on the “Hand Helds” menu average around $13; Small Plate items start at $8; and entrees run between $15 and $25.

Credit cards: Accepted

Reservations: Accepted

Handicapped access: While there is a ramp, it’s located at the rear of the building, which isn’t lit all that well at night. Inside, guests will find spacious dining areas on the ground floor.