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    Monday, October 07, 2024

    Savoring summer at Sayulita

    Chicken chili tamale at Sayulita in Centerbrook (Marisa Nadolny)
    Sayulita’s skirt steak fajitas (Marisa Nadolny)
    Classic margaritas at Sayulita (Marisa Nadolny)
    Guacamole Classico and Salsa with queso at Sayulita (Marisa Nadolny)
    The exterior of Sayulita in Centerbrook (Marisa Nadolny)

    Chasing that endless summer vibe? A taste of Sayulita, Mexico, just popped up in Centerbrook at a restaurant named after the beloved surf destination of the same name.

    This is Sayulita’s second appearance in the Nutmeg State, with its flagship operation in Glastonbury. Judging by the frequently reported long lines outside of the Glastonbury restaurant, necessity bred invention, and, voila! Sayulita in Centerbrook. Take note: Reservations are not an option at either location, a business decision that remains a mystery to me and many others, but here we are.

    A great classic margarita is an excellent cure for any minor annoyances like that, and the one we sampled at Sayulita ($12) did everything you need a margarita to do: tart, but not too tart; limey, but not too limey; and only half the rim salted. I don’t typically do salt, and usually a server will ask one’s preference, but given the clever presentation, I’ll let it go. The tequila within offered a hint of smokiness that was offset very well by the lime flavor. Recommended.

    The Guacamole Classico and Salsa ($13) was our natural next step, and we took the liberty of ordering it with a side of the house queso (add $4), and rest assured it is worth every penny. From the beautiful presentation — complete with plantain chips as edible flair — to the fantastic dips, we loved everything about this app. The red salsa was a bright, tangy, cilantro combination and, yes, we double-dipped from it to the flavorful queso, which — unlike many renditions of it you’ll find at Mexican restaurants — tasted like actual food versus hot, orange lava. As for the guacamole, we love that Sayulita tops theirs with pepitas and cotija cheese, and the avocado blend itself was fresh and nuanced, thanks in part to the welcome addition of tomatoes in the mix. (That’s how I make guacamole, for what it’s worth.)

    How does one land on a salad at a Mexican restaurant? Well, the description for the Tijuana Caesar Salad ($12) included this detail: Frybread croutons. Sold! Accompanying the croutons (which were more like crunchy noodles than chunks of bread) is a mix of romaine, roasted tomatoes, Parmesan cheese and the house “Tijuana Caesar dressing.” Roasted tomatoes make such a difference in just about everything, and they certainly infused this salad with welcome bright and sunny notes. One thing: Though enjoyable, the salad was nearly drowned in dressing. Luckily, the dressing was a mild Caesar and quite tasty, but I like some crunch to survive in my salads.

    Sayulita offers a great selection of tacos a la carte — some predictable, such as Chicken Tinga, and some quite unique, such as the Crispy Brussels taco. To experience both sides of that spectrum, we opted for a fairly traditional Pork Al Pastor taco and the not-so-traditional Korean short rib taco (both $8). The Pork Al Pastor was terrific, with pineapple-forward freshness and great seasoning and texture in the pork. The tasty tortillas kept everything assembled, and we found the whole package to be quite delicious.

    The Korean short rib had all the fixings for a great taco: Kimchi slaw, black garlic aioli, fried jalapeno, and the beef was braised with gochujang (red chili) paste. The issue? Your average street-taco-sized tortilla can’t fully accommodate a dense hunk of short rib. Had the beef been shredded a bit, we would’ve had a much easier time. We ended up knife-and-forking our way through it and we enjoyed the flavor combination of kimchi and short rib with the accompanying condiments.

    We are big fans of tamales, so we added the Chicken Chili Tamale ($7) to our smorgasbord on a recent visit. The draw for me was the built-in salsa verde — salsa made from tomatillos — but the rest of the players all lent something tasty to the overall experience. With very flavorful masa as a base, tender chicken and tangy salsa, the tamale’s layers of flavor, perfect texture and pretty presentation got four thumbs up.

    In the interest of hitting more familiar bases (and based on a recommendation from a friend), we also sampled the skirt steak fajitas ($27), and the sizzling, abundant platter of steak and veggies we received was a thing of beauty. It smelled fabulous, and the portions could have fed three people. Indeed, the three tortillas that came with this large meal didn’t come close to accommodating all the meat and veggies. It wasn’t really an issue for the two of us, because midway through we’d had our fill of char-grilled goodness. (The leftovers became an excellent sandwich.)

    We will continue our culinary travels to Sayulita soon. The bar area beckons with Corona-commercial energy, and we have yet to try any of the house desserts. (Chocolate flan, anyone?) Plus, we’re not ready for fall — plenty of reasons to escape to Sayulita once again and soak in what’s left of summer.

    Sayulita

    30 Main St., Centerbrook

    (860) 662-4922

    www.cantinasayulita.com

    Cuisine: Higher end Mexican classics and fusion

    Atmosphere: Rustic, beachy décor makes the expansive space feel intimate. Patio area available for outdoor eating, and the bar area offers a great quick-drink space.

    Service: Pleasant servers; well-paced drops at the table.

    Hours: Tuesday-Thursday, 4-9 p.m.; Friday, 4-9:30 p.m.; Saturday, 1-9:30 p.m.; Sunday, 1-9 p.m. (Closed Monday.)

    Prices: It depends on what you order. Most a la carte tacos are less than $10. The priciest items are the Lobster Enchiladas at $36 and the Ancho Coffee Bavette Steak for $29. Appetizers range from $9 to $18.

    Credit cards: Accepted

    Reservations: Not an option.

    Handicapped accessibility: Ample parking and a ramp to gain entry. Note: The entrance is at the rear of the restaurant.

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