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    Saturday, December 07, 2024

    Skip the eggplant, try Egg Parmigiana

    Crunchy golden bottom, and a topping of gooey mozzarella and more toasted bread crumbs encase the humble sunny side egg for Egg Parmesan. With a bloop of marinara, of course.
    Trying out my new Tumbler Knife Sharpener on the santoku chefs knife.
    Ten knife sharpeners. Nine are headed to the junk drawer.

    I keep a file on my computer desktop that should really be titled “Junk Drawer.” You know, the catchall compartment for all the bits and pieces that you know you’ll need in a pinch. I get over a hundred emails a week from culinary/foodie/snacky websites. I give them the once over, and if any recipes jump out at me, I click on the link, PDF the recipe and drop it into the Junk Drawer.

    Some recipes from the Junk Drawer demand to be created immediately, in which case, the PDF goes into my actual recipe database into a file called !NEW!. If I end up making a recipe from !NEW!, it gets refiled into a subcategory: Appetizers, Beef, Cakes, etc. If the recipe turns out to be a real clunker, it still gets filed, but with notes in the file like, “PLANT BASED LAXATIVE” or “YICK.”

    Skillet Egg Parmigiana bypassed all of the filing because one morning this week, I really needed some good fried eggs for lunch. I didn’t want the Denny’s Grand Slam, just a coupla eggs and maybe some toast. I remembered a Milk Street recipe I had sitting in the Junk Drawer: Eggs Fried in Parmesan Breadcrumbs with Wilted Spinach. I grabbed the iPad and headed into the kitchen.

    The recipe as published had pan toasted breadcrumbs and Parmesan that you crack a couple eggs into and then cover with baby spinach, throw a lid on and let the eggs finish cooking while the spinach wilts. I didn’t want slippery old wilted spinach on my eggs. But I did want more of that toasty, cheesy crust on top of the eggs ... maybe some mozzarella, too.

    I started revising the recipe, using two eggs instead of four, covered the exposed egg whites with the pre-toasted breadcrumb mix and added shredded mozzarella over the whole schmear. Threw a lid onto the pan to finish cooking the eggs and melting the mozzarella topping. Five minutes later, I was digging in and definitely digging it.

    Skillet Egg Parmigiana

    ¾ cup panko breadcrumbs

    1 oz (½ cup) grated parmesan cheese, plus more to serve

    ¾ tsp dried thyme

    ½ tsp smoked paprika

    2 tsp red wine vinegar

    kosher salt & black pepper

    extra virgin olive oil

    2 large eggs

    1/2 cup shredded mozzarella cheese

    marinara sauce for plating (optional)

    In a 12-inch nonstick pan, combine the panko, Parmesan, thyme, paprika, vinegar, ½ teaspoon pepper and 2 tablespoons oil. Stir until well combined.

    Set the skillet over medium-high and toast the mixture, stirring, until light golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove half of the bread crumb mix and set aside.

    Working quickly, use the back of a spoon to create two evenly spaced clearings in the crumbs remaining in the pan. Pour the remaining oil into the clearings, dividing it evenly, then crack an egg into each; it should sizzle on contact.

    Sprinkle the eggs with salt, and then cover the whites with the remaining bread crumb mix and mozzarella. Reduce to medium-low, cover the skillet and cook, occasionally rotating the pan to help ensure even browning, until the whites are set but the yolks are still runny and the mozzarella is melted; 5 to 7 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat. Using a wide spatula, transfer the eggs to a plate. Drizzle with additional oil and sprinkle with additional cheese. Serve with warmed marinara sauce, if desired.

    It Jumped Into My Cart: Tumbler Knife Sharpener

    Speaking of junk drawers, do you wanna know how many knife sharpeners I have in my house? As of this week, 10.

    The oldest is one of those roll-along grinders that came in, you guessed it, the junk drawer when I bought the house. The next one was a fancy electric Sabatier sharpener that a friend was giving away. A few of them were in box lots of kitchenware from restaurant auctions. The craziest one was the Iki Ruixin Pro, which cost me about $100. It attaches to the countertop and you clamp the knife to the base while swinging a whetstone crane across the knife blade. It was almost impossible to set the angle of the stone and a small plastic bolt got stripped when I tried to use it. That one got junk drawered immediately.

    None of these sharpeners worked well, due to their design and my inability to set the angle of the knife consistently. And if you get the angle wrong, you are just making the knife duller. I had gotten pretty good using my two-sided whetstone to sharpen my knives, but I was only guessing about what angle to hold the knife.

    Enter knife sharpener number 10, the Tumbler. I’ve been seeing the Tumbler advertised on the Internet for the last couple of years. I broke down and bought it last week. It consists of two pieces, a rolling sharpening drum and a magnetic holding block. The main selling point was the magnetic block that holds the knife at 15 or 20 degree angles for accurate sharpening. What’s the difference, you ask?

    15 Degrees: Typically used for Japanese-style knives or kitchen knives that need to maintain a very sharp, precise edge. This narrower angle creates a razor-sharp edge for cutting softer foods like fruits, vegetables, and boneless meat. Downside: A finer angle is more delicate and may dull quickly if used for heavy-duty tasks.

    20 Degrees: Standard for Western-style kitchen knives. It provides a balance between sharpness and durability, suitable for most kitchen tasks, including chopping, slicing, and dicing. More durable than a finer edge but still sharp enough for kitchen applications.

    The Tumbler works extremely well for my purposes. I used it to freshen up the blades on five of my everyday knives and it was a noticeable improvement. I even used it to grind out a tiny chip in my Dexter-Russell chef knife which I chipped trying to sharpen it with my old whetstone. Rating: 9/10

    And if all this chatter about kitchen knives bored you ... watch out. I preordered an ultrasonic kitchen knife on Kickstarter about a year ago. It don’t slice, it vibrates through food at 50,000 movements per second. It’s due to arrive before Christmas and I’m vibrating with idiot foodie excitement already.

    Rich Swanson is a local cook who has had numerous wins in nationally sponsored recipe contests. He is also the layout specialist here at The Day.

    Comments? Questions? Suggestions? Rich Swanson can be reached at TheSurlyTable@gmail.com.

    Comment threads are monitored for 48 hours after publication and then closed.