Even before River Bar opened early last summer, co-owner James Wayman shared that his new restaurant’s cuisine would be “global comfort food.”

For devotees who have followed Wayman’s long career as a chef, including stints over the decades at the Oyster Club in Mystic, The River Tavern in Chester, and way back when at Water Street Café in Stonington Borough, there was an expectation that River Bar would boast a sophisticated, high-end menu.

But truth be told, comfort food can be elevated. Wayman and his business partner, Aaron Laipply, who also operate the popular Nana’s in Mystic and Westerly, have created a menu that boasts choices such as miso oven-baked haddock, a buttermilk fried portobello, lobster lettuce wraps and a hanger steak with a choice of hand-cut fries or white sweet potato wedges. This is comfort food knocked up a notch or two.

We have visited several times since River Bar, in the former Bridge Restaurant just over the Pawcatuck River in Westerly, opened in June. On one recent visit, we dined with a couple who bid at a charity auction on the chance to accompany a critic out on assignment. We arrived about 7:30 on a Tuesday night and the place was quiet. We took a table in the bar, which is lovely, but in hindsight agreed it would have been better to sit in one of the brighter dining rooms. It was dark at our table and hard to see what we were eating.

We all agreed to try different starters and entrees, and we covered a lot of menu options that way. We also got bread service, the Nana’s sourdough plate as well as Whit’s cornbread, each $6. Nana’s bread is always exceptional and the sourdough did not disappoint, but that cornbread, with warm honey butter, well, it is next level.

The star starter was a special, an Opah gravlax. Opah is a new fish for me, but our waitress explained that it is sweet and tender, and when I read about it later, I learned it is also versatile. At River Bar, it was served on rye toast and topped with a cream cheese mixture, fried capers, red onion, dill and other herbs. We all had a taste and agreed it was salty good, flavorful and a great side with a glass of wine or a beer.

For salads, we tried the Spicy Calabrian Chili Caesar ($13), with parmesan and garlic sourdough croutons, and the Cucumber Salad ($8), which was sliced cucumber chunks dressed with preserved lemon vinaigrette, crunchy fried shallots and fresh herbs. If you do not mind kicking it up a notch, the Caesar was very good, and the cucumber salad was crisp and flavorful, with a pop of crunch from the fried shallots.

One of our guests tried the Fried Calamari ($14), minus the hot peppers, and declared it was very good. The squid was dredged in cornmeal and prepared with garlic, white wine and lemon butter and was served with a side of marinara sauce. There were plenty of rings and tentacles and the cornmeal, rather than a coating of flour and cornstarch or baking powder, didn’t leave that aftertaste you sometimes get.

There is a Roasted Chicken Breast entrée on the menu ($26) that changes with the seasons. We have tried it several times, and the chicken is always tender and served with a charred corn cream sauce and other vegetables. In the summer, there was squash and tomatoes, and more recently, roasted radishes, carrots and sweet potatoes.

The Prime Hanger Steak Frites ($32) is prepared with either a blue cheese butter or red wine mushroom jam, and a choice of roasted white sweet potatoes or hand-cut French fries. Our beef eater gave high praise to the tenderness of the meat and proclaimed it as very well-seasoned. She also asked for half fries and half sweet potatoes, and our waitress and the kitchen were happy to accommodate her.

Another dish that received praise was the Baked Stonington Scallops ($32). The scallops were prepared with sourdough crumbs and wine and lemon butter, and served with a side of roasted radishes, squash, carrots and sweet potatoes. The scallops were delicious and perfectly cooked, but the vegetables were not warm enough.

Our least favorite entrée was the Classic Linguini and Clams ($24), in a white wine sauce. When we saw the description as classic, we imagined whole littleneck clams on a bed of pasta, but in this version, the clams were minced and the linguini topped with crunchy breadcrumbs. Maybe it’s because we were expecting something different, but the dish lacked flavor and it was a disappointment.

But there are so many other good things to try. The Lobster Lettuce Wraps ($17), made with Kewpie, lemon, crunchy cabbage slaw and herbs, are yummy. We would also recommend the Tostadas ($15), made with your choice of tuna, Seacoast mushrooms or grilled shrimp, and served with cilantro, pickled onion and lime on crispy corn tortillas. The Fried Fish Burrito ($20) is another popular choice. It is stuffed full with haddock, vegetables, herbs and a lime crema.

They have a raw bar at River Bar and serve brunch on Sundays. In warm weather, there is a great bar out back, overlooking the Pawcatuck River, and ample riverside space for dining. This remake of an old spot is a great gathering place with a welcoming bar, different dining rooms and, in season, wonderful outdoor space.

The restaurant is fresh and clean, the bartenders and servers very good, and the food not only delicious but also unique and made with many locally sourced ingredients. Like everything else the team at Nana’s does, they have more than exceeded expectations at River Bar.

River Bar

37 Main St., Westerly

(401) 561-7050

riverbarwesterly.com.

Atmosphere: It depends on where you dine. The barroom, dining rooms, and outdoor patio and bar all have different décor and personalities. Best of all, they all offer views of the adjacent Pawcatuck River.

Cuisine: New American comfort food

Alcohol: A full-service bar with an emphasis on mezcal, rum, craft beer and natural wine.

Hours: 4-9 p.m. Monday-Thursday; noon-10 p.m. Friday and Saturday; on Sundays, brunch from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., then the regular menu until 8 p.m.

Service: Knowledgeable and helpful

Prices: A very good range

Credit cards: Yes

Handicapped accessibility: Yes