Charlie’s Place: (almost) the same as it ever was

November 27, 2024 2:12 pm • Last Updated: November 27, 2024 2:12 pm

By Rick Koster
Day Arts/Features writer

r.koster@theday.com

Dining room at Charlie’s Place in Niantic (Mitchell Etess)

Chicken club (Mitchell Etess)

Mediterranean salmon (Mitchell Etess)

There’s an argument to be made that those who are at once intellectually curious and devotedly epicurean could happily exist for a LONG time by simply ping-ponging back and forth between Charlie’s Place and the main Book Barn location. The two establishments are conveniently located kitty-corner from one another in Niantic, after all. Book, food. Food, book. Just don’t get hit by the lunatic speeding down Main Street/156 as you try to cross for more books/more food.

I recently undertook a thematically contextual lunch trip to Charlie’s although, rather than reading, I met three bright pals with whom conversation is always lively, stimulating and spanning a variety of topics.

Charlie’s Place is a much-loved mainstay establishment that, with reliable ease, serves as a casual family spot, a neighborhood pub and a comfy destination for a nice evening out. Regulars were understandably anxious last July, though, when New London restaurateur Rod Cornish, who’d closed his popular Hot Rod Café, bought Charlie’s from owner Charlie Anastasiou.

No need to worry!

Perfect match

Anastasiou, looking forward to retirement, had heard good things about Cornish — who in turn was looking to expand into Niantic. Realizing both wanted to maintain the staff, menu and ambiance that made Charlie’s Place reliably popular, the pair made the agreement — with the understanding Cornish would bring along his perennially award-winning chicken wings.

Those familiar with Charlie’s also love the building’s layout. As you walk in the main entrance, there’s a small counter and hostess station. Down a few steps to the left is a narrow, perpendicular dining room with booths and tables in the middle. The glossy wood finish and vaulted ceiling, with a series of expansive windows, give the space the feel of a forest lodge. On the other side of the building is a J-shaped tavern with more tables, some screens for sports, and a full-service bar with plenty of beer options.

We sat in the main dining room and our server Morgan was smiling and patient despite what must’ve seemed, to her, the world’s four oldest male kindergartners in history — despite our occasional conversational lapses into lucidity by way of Great Pontifications.

The menu at Charlie’s is extensive, with numerous possibilities under such headings as Appetizers, Salads, Seafood, Fried Seafood, Pastas, Charlie’s Favorites, Beef, Poultry, Sandwiches and Burgers, along with generous wine and signature cocktail lists.

So much to choose from

And while the starters predictably included nachos, Mozz sticks, quesadillas and fried calamari, we felt we had no choice but to split an order of Rod’s/Charlie’s wings. There are a dozen varieties thereof; to appeal to our broad demographics, we went with Buffalo and asked for them “well done.”

The eight specimens ($13.95) were large and plump with a crisp exterior lacquer. Juice burst with each flavorful bite. My compadres — none of whom had ever made it from their Old Lyme/Noank enclaves to Rod’s in New London — were delighted by the quality. In fact, very little of the perfectly fine blue cheese dressing dipping containers were needed.

In terms of entrees, I let the fellas select whatever they liked as opposed to dictating what they’d eat for the purposes of this report.

Mystery Man, who devours crime novels at dizzying speed, pounced on the opportunity to sample the Fried Whole Belly Clams Platter ($28.95). Mystery Man is also a whole belly clam connoisseur — roughly consuming one whole belly clam platter somewhere in the world for every crime novel he reads — and patiently explained to the rest of us what a “whole belly clam” IS and why it’s a difficult entree to pull off.

I can’t remember what he said, but he cackled happily through his meal. The batter apportionment was ideal, he said; the seasoning delicate enough to enhance rather than obscure the innate sensations of the bivalve mollusk; and the chef knew the precise moment to remove the clams from the flame. The accompanying fries and coleslaw worked well in support.

“I’ve tried this dish all over the shoreline and these are by far the best I ever had,” he said.

The Guru of Entertainment, a man who over the course of his career booked more concerts than Bruce Springsteen has played — including several by the Boss — was curious whether the Charlie crew could similarly pull off Mediterranean Salmon ($28.95). The presentation featured a nice wedge of sauteed fish topped with a mélange of roasted peppers, tomatoes, capers and artichokes in a rich garlic wine sauce.

Entertainment Mogul waxed eloquently on the numerous health benefits of salmon, then punned, “One can NOT have dry salmon! To try to eat a dry piece of fish is like swimming upstream.”

He then pronounced his salmon a moist and delicious treasure, though the mashed potatoes were bland. He also asked for an order of onion rings and received a very nice and large batch of shoestring onions with a delicate batter and a pop with each bite.

More than seafood

It’s true that our other pal — call him Captain Big Voice — is a reluctant and particular eater. Typically at our regular gatherings, he just eats a fruit cup. Seriously. It’s hard imagining that mellifluent intonation — you should hear him deliver the St. Crispin Day speech and I’m not making this up — being properly fueled by a few sliced bananas and a handful of grapes. But there ya go!

In this case, Charlie doesn’t offer fruit. Big Voice, undeterred, asked for a Grilled Chicken Club ($15.95), served with a heap of standard French fries. It was a giant sammich, carved into quadrants, and the tasty bird, crisp bacon and fresh lettuce were all nestled in precise proportion under a dune of fries. If the Krewe of Charlie aren’t bringing anything new to the idea of a grilled chicken sandwich, they’re making the best of the basic blueprint.

Myself? I was delighted to see Pot Roast listed as one of Charlie’s (three) Favorites, along with Stuffed Cabbage and Meatloaf ($22.95). I received a plate with a baseball-shaped hunk of beautifully lean and fork-friendly roast. The brown gravy was earthy and savory and, though the mashed taters and broccoli florets were just OK, I was nonetheless very happy with my choice. It did make me think, though, that a pot roast sandwich wouldn’t be a bad idea if the full meal is too heavy at lunch.

The Four Wise Men split a piece of Double Chocolate Cake ($9.95), which was possibly triple or even quadruple choc-o. We didn’t fight over the last bite, but it COULD have happened.

It’s great that Rod Cornish is still actively involved in the restaurant business, and that he and Charlie Anastasiou found one another is a truly fine development.