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    Friday, April 26, 2024

    Beef with feds ends New London meat business

    Meat cutter Juan Lainez, right, puts pork and spices, which a customer will use to make soupy, through a grinder for the second time while Jorge Serrano, also a meat cutter, opens another 60-pound box of pork to be ground. My-Car Provisions Co., in business for 83 years delivering meat and cheese products to many local businesses, will be closing.

    New London - Nearly 90 food restaurants and markets in the region are having to scramble to find a company to sell them cheese and meat products now that Raymond J. Capalbo of My-Car Provisions Company Inc. is calling it quits.

    The 67-year-old Capalbo, who has run the family-owned business for more than two decades of the company's 83-year run, said the main reason for closing at the end of this week is the economy. But he adds that more rigorous enforcement of federal food regulations, which included in December a first-ever inspection by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration, also played a part in his decision.

    "I've had enough of the federal government," said Capalbo, a native of Westerly who lives in Charlestown, R.I. "We're choosing to give this up."

    Capalbo didn't blame any of the inspectors, saying they were just doing their jobs. Instead, he suspects that larger food processors are lobbying for more stringent regulations in an effort to put small operations like My-Car out of business.

    Capalbo said one of the newly enforced regulations involved prohibiting the cutting of meat and cheese products at the same time in the same room. Cutting raw meat and ready-to-eat meats at the same time in the same space also was disallowed.

    The enforcement actions led Capalbo to make the decision to no longer slice cheese for his customers.

    "It was a tough decision (to close the business) but also a very easy decision," Capalbo said. "I've been doing it long enough."

    A spokeswoman for the American Association of Meat Processors said Capalbo's situation is not unusual for small operations across the United States. Many smaller companies face difficulties in adhering to the same regulatory standards as larger meat processors while competing on prices, said the spokeswoman, who didn't want to be identified by name.

    But the decline of small businesses has been a nationwide phenomenon.

    "It's not unique to this industry," she said.

    My-Car is a combination of Myer and Carmen, the first names of the original owners, who started the business in the 1930s. Myer Weinberg, who ran the business for more than 60 years, was the stepfather of Capalbo's wife, Donna.

    The business, located on Westwood Avenue, consists of an area for meat and cheese processing, a small office, plus one operational bay where trucks load provisions taken to local restaurants and food stores in the early morning and midafternoon. Capalbo comes to work before 4 a.m. Monday through Friday and then drives provisions out to the Westerly area in the afternoon as he heads home.

    Among the meats processed at My-Car are hamburger, steaks, roasts, chicken and soupy, a dried sausage popular particularly in the Westerly-Pawcatuck area.

    Capalbo said he has two people interested in buying the business, which has been at the same location since 1953. In addition, Capalbo has been looking into selling his customer list, which has dwindled from around 130 three years ago to 88 today.

    "It's just a sign of the times," he said of his impending closure.

    One of his only regrets, he said, is leaving behind two long-time employees, Jorge Serrano, who has been with the company for more than 15 years, and Juan Lainez, with nearly a decade at My-Car.

    He said he will also miss his customers, including the owners of many small restaurants and markets from Niantic to Charlestown, R.I.

    "Ray is an awesome guy - he would give you the shirt off his back, basically," said Lynn Ivory, owner of Hamilton Street Market. "We're all going to miss him very much."

    Paul Anastasiou, co-owner of Pizzarama Drive-In on Broad Street, said he has been buying 80 to 100 pounds of hamburger each week from Capalbo. He doesn't know where he is going to get his provisions in the future, but said it will almost assuredly have to be a major company like US Foods.

    "We know him," Anastasiou said of Capalbo. "The prices were good. We never had a problem."

    Brian Brother, owner of Snax Dragon Tacos & Vending, said he enjoyed the convenience of calling up a local business and getting prompt service. He expects to use such major providers as Restaurant Depot, Costco and BJ's Wholesale Club, but bemoans the death of another longtime small business in the city.

    "This is the loss of a tremendous resource right here," Brother said.

    Above Capalbo's office door, a worn-looking horseshoe stands as mute testament to the number of years he has put into the business, dating back to the 1970s after a stint in Vietnam with the Bravo Company 1st Battalion 9th Marines.

    "My mom gave me the horseshoe for good luck," said Capalbo, who endured a day-and-a-half firefight in Vietnam nearly half a century ago during which 14 comrades died. "I'll take that with me when I leave."

    l.howard@theday.com

    Raymond Capalbo, owner of My-Car Provisions Co. in New London, takes a wedge of cheese out of the vacuum packaging system while preparing an order.

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