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    Friday, April 26, 2024

    Herb harvest inspires pesto and frozen cubes of fresh flavor

    Even the herb garden had a banner year this year. If I had kept up with the pinching off of the blossoms, I probably would have had an even larger harvest. (Jill Blanchette/The Day)
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    I planted just two flat-leaf parsley plants this spring and, I swear, I have harvested and enjoyed enough of their tangy leaves to satisfy even the most herb-obsessed cook.

    The sage I planted last year came back, but it's nearly as big as a shrub. Basil, chives, Thai basil, thyme and rosemary equally thrived. So now that I'm staring down the throat of winter and feel the first frost looming like a full moon over Fishers Island Sound, the thought of losing one flavorful leaf is unbearable.

    What's a home cook to do? Chop 'em up and freeze 'em, I say.

    After you've harvested, cleaned, dried and cut up your fresh herbs, pack them into ice cube trays and top them with a tablespoon or so of oil or water. To help decide which, I tried to imagine how I was going to use the herbs later. I used water for the parsley — thinking that would help preserve this recipe standard's versatility. I used oil for the tarragon — I'm determined to make James Beard's Chicken Tarragon this winter — and the Thai basil. The basil family tends to darken quickly when chopped. The oil helps make sure the doesn't happen.

    I turned the last of the Italian basil into pesto for the freezer. I just can't get enough of this fragrant, garlicky sauce, and nothing cheers up gray winter like a bowl of bright green, piping hot and cheesy pesto covered pasta. We also enjoy it stirred into a bowl of vegetable soup or smeared over a cheese pizza or a boneless chicken breast when they're hot from the oven or grill.

    Traditionally, pesto requires pine nuts, but I rarely have them hanging around. They're so expensive and they turn rancid quickly, so I tend to buy only what I need for a particular recipe. But I always have walnuts on the shelf or in the freezer. After a quick toast in a dry skillet, to my taste they bring the same rich, nuttiness to pesto but with less expense.

    If you're going to freeze your pesto, it's best not to add the cheese. Add that later, after thawing and right before serving. You'll get a much fresher flavor that way.

    I'm going to dig up and pot the thyme and the rosemary, so I don't need to worry about them right away. But I still have to preserve some sage, chives and more parsley. And of course, if you didn't grow your own, sometimes bargains can be had at the farmer's market this time of year. A bountiful harvest can be an embarrassment of riches, and no one wants to return any of it to the compost pile.

    Enjoy!

    Jill Blanchette is the multiplatform production editor at The Day. Share comments and recipes with her at j.blanchette@theday.com.

    Get rid of the stems then wash and dry your basil leaves before turning them into pesto. (Jill Blanchette/The Day)
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    Freeze chopped, fresh herbs in ice cube trays topped with either oil or water. (Jill Blanchette/The Day)
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    Basic Basil Pesto

    Makes 1 cup

    1 medium to large clove of garlic, crushed

    2 tablespoons lightly toasted pine nuts or walnuts

    ½ cup extra virgin olive oil

    ½ cup freshly grated Parmesan or Parmesan-Romano mix

    Put the basil, garlic, nuts and about half the oil in the bowl of a food processor or blender.

    Process, stopping to scrape down the sides of the container as needed, and adding the rest of the oil gradually. Add more or less oil, depending on the texture you want. If using right away, pour the pesto into a bowl, stir in the cheese and you're ready to go.

    If you're going to store the pesto — it will keep in the refrigerator for a week or two or in the freezer for several months — hold off adding the cheese until right before you're going to serve your pesto. I freeze the pesto in 1 cup portions and add ½ cup cheese later, after it's thawed.

    Original recipe from Mark Bittman's "How to Cook Everything."

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