A few years back, I got addicted to a little holiday treat available from the Hickory Farms kiosk in Crystal Mall. It was a ham summer sausage — the porcine cousin, obviously, to their more celebrated beef summer sausage. Naturally, as soon as I developed a seasonal jones for the damned things, the Hickory Farms demons stopped making the ham summer sausage. Fevered emails to corporate went unanswered, and I spent that Christmas week shivering in withdrawal. Well, the ham's not back, but the Hickory demons have at least come out with a Turkey Summer Sausage. Flavored with brown sugar, it tasted almost as hammy as the original ham version, and it is available for a very reasonable $8.50 per unit. With a think slice of Swiss cheese on an ordinary saltine, it's pretty great. I'm on stick number three — and it's still the first week in December.