Chris Nicolelli's kitchen caters to about 300 residents at StoneRidge - from those who have traveled and have a discerning palate, to others with special dietary needs who are in the 40-bed skilled nursing section of the campus.

It's a challenge to come up with healthy choices for the active members of the community and maintain favorite dishes for the steadfast Yankees who call StoneRidge retirement center home.

"Keeping it new and exciting while making the traditionalists happy, that's the challenge," said Nicolelli. "People like their meatloaf and their pot roast. It's finding the balance."

Nicolelli, a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America who has worked at StoneRidge for a year, brings sophisticated choices, along with Swedish meatballs, to the main dining room that looks out onto the Mystic countryside. He won the 2013 Newport Great Chowder and Cook-off Chowder award for his Lacavore Lobster Chowder, and in the spring he placed second in the same contest for his Coconut Curry and Red Chowder Lentil Seafood Chowder.

He's incorporated more fresh produce and local seafood, and he uses herbs and some vegetables that are grown in gardens on the grounds. His menu includes items like Lime Cilantro and Tequila Grilled Shrimp, Veal Osso Bucco, and Chicken with Sugar Snap Peas and Spring Herbs.

"The food is so good we kid the new people that they may gain the freshman 15," said Dorothy Schrage, marketing director, referring to the 15 pounds that many freshmen in college put on during their first year away from home.

Nicolelli, who worked at Keystone Ranch in Colorado and for Omni Restaurants, graduated from the CIA in 2010. He also worked for a time for Disney.

All his jobs, he said, prepared him for his position at StoneRidge, where the main dining room serves 35 to 40 lunches and about 170 dinners on a weekend. Lamb, duck or veal dinners are so popular, he said, even more diners than usual show up and many times bring guests. The kitchen, which has a staff of 21, also prepare 30 to 35 to-go dinners each night.

The facility also offers light dining in the Fireside Room, the JB Steakhouse and the Mariner Grill. A private dining room can be reserved for residents and their guests.

While all residents have full kitchens in their apartments - which range from 720 square feet to 1,800 square feet - they can buy into a monthly meal plan.

Nicolelli is working on his seasonal special dinner, which will be served to residents who sign up for the special event in the private dining room. The five-course meal will include Roasted Sugar Pumpkin and Butternut Squash Soup, Seared Foie Gras, Square Ravioli, Butter roasted Rack of Venison and Apple Cider Pie. The menu includes a description of each course and where the ingredients are coming from.

"I like dealing with the residents. They're tough, but it's rewarding," Nicolelli said.

He's had diners tell him his ratatouille didn't taste the same as the delicate mix of veggies they ate in Italy in 1962. He's had complaints about the chicken being too dry.

"If we don't like something, we tell him," said Ruth Waller, chairwoman of the Food and Beverage Committee, which consists of 12 residents. The committee, which meets weekly with Nicolelli, critiques the food choices and suggests new items. They are working on a new menu that will be color coded and offer gluten-free options every day.

Waller, the former town clerk in Stonington who has lived at StoneRidge for the past four years, also praised Nicolelli and his staff.

"They're open to constructive criticism," she said. "His chicken is moist and his sauces are delicious." And her favorite meal?

"Mussels," she said. "He makes them in a variety of different ways. Everyone shows up for dinner when mussels are on the menu."

"They're tough critics," Nicolelli said, who clearly has an easy rapport with Waller.

Nicolelli said the biggest culinary risk he's taken so far was serving dry-aged New York strip steak. Dry-aged beef is left out for days, mold that develops is sliced away, and the meat is then cooked. He served it with smothered mash potatoes, beet demigloss and summer veggies.

"It's meat to the third-degree," he said. "The residents loved it."

K.EDGECOMB@THEDAY.COM

Chef Nicolelli shares his a recipe for Sugar Pumpkin and Roasted Butternut Squash Soup with Maple Sour Cream

1 large butternut squash, split and seeded

3 small or 2 medium sugar pumpkins, split and seeded

2 large yellow onion, sliced

1/2 lb butter

2 cups heavy cream

7 cups chicken stock, or low sodium broth

1 tablespoon ground nutmeg

1 teaspoon ground mace

3 bay leaf

1/2 cup brown sugar

1 cup sour cream

1/2 cup pure maple syrup

Pre-Heat Oven to 375 degrees

Toss butternut squash and pumpkin in oil, salt and pepper and place on a baking sheet cut side down

Roast squash and pumpkin until soft and golden brown, about 45 minutes

Allow squash and pumpkin to cool, and scrape flesh from the skin. Reserve flesh and toss peels

Melt butter in large sauce pan

Add sliced onions to sauce pot and lower heat to medium

Season with salt and pepper to taste

Allow onions to caramelize in butter, stirring occasionally, about 30 minutes

Add brown sugar and stir until dissolved

Add scraped squash and pumpkin flesh

Add nutmeg and mace

Cook on medium heat for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally

Add bay leaf

Add chicken stock and raise heat to high

Bring to boil, stirring to avoid burning

Reduce heat to medium and allow to cook uncovered for 1 hour

Remove bay leaf, blend soup using immersion blender or in batches in conventional blender

Return to low heat and add cream

allow to cook on low, stirring frequently for 30 minutes. Do not allow soup to boil

Mix maple syrup and sour cream

Ladle soup into bowl, and top with 2 tablespoons sour cream.

Yields 10-12 6 oz servings.