East Lyme — Steve Turner has created a cool and casual feel in his new restaurant, Lillian's Cafe, which slowly took shape on Main Street in Niantic across from the Children's Museum of Southeastern Connecticut during the spring.

The 84-seat Lillian’s, which looks like a seaside cottage from the front, started its transformation last October when Turner bought the building that previously had housed the Natural Food Store.

A longtime associate of local restaurateur Jon Kodama, a former chef at Dock 'n' Dine in Old Saybrook and the operator of the former Riverwalk restaurant in Mystic, Turner is running the new place with his wife Jennifer.

“From a business standpoint, Niantic had a lot more to offer than Mystic,” Turner said.

He said that while the Mystic restaurant market is saturated, he believes the Niantic area has room to grow. Turner cited the beaches, the nearby Niantic Cinema and a new development across the street called Bayside as some of the attraction he sees in the downtown location.

It took about six months to renovate the 2,200-square-foot building. The restaurant opened in late June, just as the summer season arrived, and includes a generous front patio with 40 seats. Inside, Turner has kept things simple, with an open and inviting one 56-seat dining area and another 28-seat bar in the back.

“It’s a comfortable look,” Turner said. “The service is unpretentious.”

The dining area is currently peppered with the work of Neil Ruenzel, a local artist who used to be director of communication at Electric Boat. Turner hopes the work of other artists will rotate through the space.

The menu is small, Turner acknowledged, but is supplemented by interesting daily specials. Gluten-free items are readily available, he added.

“Good food using fresh ingredients and creativity with unique preparation” is Turner's approach.

Wild Alaskan salmon tacos, steak frites and falafel are some of the main menu items, ranging from $11 to $21. Turner said the vegetable pad thai, at $14, is one of the more popular entrees.

Lillian’s makes all its own desserts and uses baked items from Giuliano’s Bakery right down the street.

The restaurant is named for Turner’s grandmother, though his oldest daughter shares the name. Of course, that didn’t go over so well with the youngest daughter, so a sign in the dining room notes that it’s Audrey’s Too, and the fries and a salad are named after her as well.

As a “social experiment,” Turner added, the restaurant and bar currently have no televisions or WiFi in hopes that Lillian’s will become a place to converse and meet new people.

That could change by football season, he said, but for now, “I don’t think it’s been missed.”

l.howard@theday.com

Twitter: @KingstonLeeHow

What: Lillian's Cafe

Who: Steve and Jennifer Turner

Where: 374 Main St., Niantic

Hours: Lunch, 11:30-4; dinner, 4-10

Phone: 860-739-2233

Website: lillianscafeniantic.com