Most revered New England lobster shacks are beloved either for their amazing food or their breathtaking locations. It is rare indeed for such a place to be extolled, not for cuisine or scenic vistas, but for atmosphere, the magical alchemy that occurs when its customers come together to eat.

Such a place exists right here, just outside downtown New London, where the back edge of Shaw's Cove, Hamilton Street and the railroad tracks line up like strings in a fish net, with just enough room in between for Captain Scott's Lobster Dock.

Where there should be views of the Thames, the raised railroad tracks instead offer a regular parade of Amtrak and Shoreline East passengers peering out their windows as their trains slow in anticipation of downtown's Union Station. On the other side are boats, guests of Crocker's Boatyard, coming and going at the whim of the train bridge, which spins to open or close the entrance to the cove. There's a lot to see and it's all so very New London.

On a recent Saturday night, a Nathan Hale Magnet School fundraiser was underway, with student performances first, then Steve Elci and Friends, a local band that offers children's music that adults find easy to love. So half the crowd was kids and adoring parents and grandparents, while the other half, perplexed, had just come to eat but were quickly seduced by the festive atmosphere. This happens a lot at Captain Scott's.

The line forms at the take-out windows, where food is ordered and later retrieved upon summons via the public address system. There's a good-sized, uncovered dining area — an assemblage of picnic tables, most with attached benches but some with chairs — and a similarly equipped but larger shaded dining area beneath a pavilion. Beyond that lies the stage and a couple of large parking areas. 

When we arrived at 5:45 p.m., the line stretched to the edge of the pavilion, a distance of about 50 feet. 

We were surprised later to realize that we'd waited an hour before reaching the window to order. The line was so seamlessly a part of the experience. All of New London was there. The Navy, the Coast Guard, the local colleges, all well represented. There were suits and sweats, kids and seniors, musicians and politicians, each in good humor and well-behaved. It felt like a happening.

By the time we were sitting down to eat, around 7 p.m., the line extended the full length of the pavilion, about 150 feet. Steve Elci was singing, "If I was an alligator, chop, chop, chop," and a guy on stilts was working the queue, making balloon animals as the sweet smell of fried seafood summer wafted by. No one seemed bothered by the line.

Captain Scott's doesn't serve alcohol, but you can bring your own. Some people do it up with ice buckets, fancy glasses and tablecloths, while others just pull a couple of cans from a cooler. Some are dressed to the nines, while others arrive fresh from a hard day's work. 

The menu is posted above the take-out windows so, as the line moves forward, there's plenty of time to make a plan of attack. Coleslaw comes with the sandwiches and the dinners, which also are accompanied by French fries or red potatoes.

During a previous lunch visit, I had sampled the crab salad roll ($8.95) and the clam strips ($12.95 for the dinner), so that night we ordered a cup of clear chowder ($3.50), three clam fritters ($2.95), a side of red skin potatoes ($1.95), a fish sandwich ($6.95), a small, hot lobster roll ($11.95) — the cold lobster salad roll is the same price — and a half pint of whole belly clams, fried (that day's price was $15.95).

The bad news first: The fritters were not good. They were doughy, with no detectable clam flavor. Come to Rhode Island for those. The fish in the sandwich was mushy and flavorless. Less cooking and a bit of salt definitely were in order. The generous serving of crab salad from my earlier visit was bland, hardly crabby at all. A disappointment.

The better news? The chowder was good, hot with a mild clammy broth, actual visible clams and just the right amount of red-skinned potato chunks. And a quick dip therein did wonders for the fritters.

Now the great news: The lobster was fantastic — hot, buttery, tender meat bursting from a perfectly grilled hot dog roll. The clams, both strips and whole belly, were top notch, not greasy but crunchy, tender and sweet. The servings of each were very generous. Billed as half-pint and pint options, the reality is more pint and pint-and-a-half. And the tab for all that food was just 46 bucks. As a lobster and clam lover, I have a new go-to spot.

Options for vegetarians are limited to a grilled cheese sandwich and an array of sides, including massive onion rings, those creamy red potatoes, sweet corn in season, fries, coleslaw and salad. For landlubbers, there are grilled chicken sandwiches, burgers, dogs, and chicken tenders.

My suspicion is that anyone who loves seafood will find something worth coming for on Captain Scott's menu. But what really makes this place exceptional is that, somehow, it feels like a perpetual party. All of New London is there and, when you arrive, there's no question that you, too, are welcome.

j.blanchette@theday.com

Twitter: @2Petunia

Captain Scott's Lobster Dock

80 Hamilton St., New London

www.captscotts.com; (860) 439-1741

Cuisine: Mainly seafood

Atmosphere: Welcoming, party-like, picnic-style casual

Service: Very friendly

Prices: Seafood sandwiches: $3.25 for a hamburger, $15.95 for a large lobster roll. Dinners: $6.95 for a small fish and chips, $20.95 to create your own combo.

Hours: In season, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. daily

Credit Cards: Yes

Reservations: No

Handicapped access: Outdoor ordering and dining, mostly at picnic tables but some chair seating also available.