If the adorable name of Niantic's Gumdrops & Lollipops isn't enough to lure you in, consider this: it's also a 1950s-style diner.

That's right: gumdrops, lollipops (and chocolates and fudge), plus burgers, fries and ice cream in the back. To some, this is foodie heaven.

If you make it to the diner section of the shop and manage to avoid having ice cream for dinner - no thanks to prominent displays of Salem Valley Farms ice cream and other baked treats - you're in for a fun meal of classic eats and some surprises.

For starters, after we ordered our meals, our waitress sent us to our table with a batch of complimentary, freshly made pub chips (available on the menu for $1.69 for a small; $3.25 for a large). These crunchy, thick homemade potato chips took the edge off our growing hunger and were made all the better by the readily available malt vinegar we sprinkled on top.

Burgers and hot dogs are staples of the menu, but we were pleasantly surprised to have the option to go mini with a plate of three sliders to order, with fries ($8.99 and comes with a Hosmer fountain soda) or without ($6.89). Do get the fries, though, because they are fabulous, thick-cut, crisp on the outside and soft and flavorful on the inside treats. (Get a small side order for $1.95.)

Of course, in the interest of science, we shared a small order of onion rings ($2.99), too, on a waitress's recommendation (we were torn between rings and house nachos) and finished them pleased and ready for our main meals. The serving of rings was more than enough for two people and the crispy-to-onion ratio was perfect, with the onions sliced neither too thin nor too thick.

The sliders - ordered and received with tomato, lettuce and mustard - were just okay, though we appreciated the pillow-y rolls on which they were served. The mini burgers themselves were a tad dry - which did not stop us from finishing all three.

Yet another happy surprise came when we tried the special of the day, a tomato melt (an open-face grilled cheese with tomato; $8.99 with a cup of soup). Somehow, the kitchen at Gumdrops & Lollipops has scored tasty tomatoes in the winter; they proved a delight on the simple sandwich of wheat toast and loads of American cheese, with a sprinkle of some herbs on top.

The accompanying soup, a corn chowder, rounded out the special nicely. Chunks of diced potatoes made for a hearty soup, though plenty of corn niblets sweetened up the pot. The base was just the right consistency: not too thick and creamy, not overly broth-y - and entirely enjoyable.

However, our dessert is what really made for a memorable meal. Beyond the candy store items, cupcakes, chipwiches, pies, brownies and ice cream are among the many tempting sweets on offer, but the special dessert of the day was apple crisp with either soft serve ($5.88) or hard ice cream. We went with the soft serve and were both amazed at how delicious it was. Yes, the soft-crisp apples - well spiced and ample - and the oat topping were quite tasty, but the vanilla soft serve tasted of actual dairy, was smooth beyond belief, and not as sweet as many others. It was a happy highlight and we will order it again soon. It was possibly better than the very, very good, store-made fudge we later sampled. Our 1/4-pound brick of peanut-butter and chocolate fudge ($3.75 per 1/4 pound, with nearly a dozen other flavors available) disappeared quickly, and it ranks as one of the best batches of fudge I've ever tasted - smooth and creamy and super fresh.

And yet, there's one last happy surprise to report. On a menu mostly populated by summer-y barbecue staples, we simply had to try one of its outliers: the Chicken Caesar Wrap ($6.99). We presumed it would be middling - an afterthought to the menu meant to appease the semi-health-conscious. We were so wrong, which turned out to be very right. The wrap, filled with greens, chunks of tender chicken, and even croutons, was absolutely wonderful and its Caesar-esque dressing is also one of the best I've tasted. Where some Caesar dressing can be anchovy-garlic bombs, this one was lighter and softer with notes of lemon or some lovely herb. Garlic was certainly in the mix, but overall the dressing served to highlight the wrap's contents while taking a small bow for its own flavor contribution.

Bottom line: the fare at Gumdrops & Lollipops seems tasty from soup to chocolate-covered nuts. Before your meal, take some time to drink in the charming decor and get ready for a surge of memories as you peruse the displays of candy cigarettes, fruit slices, wax lips and still more pleasant surprises.

Gumdrops & Lollipops Candy and Ice Cream Shoppe

334 Main St., Niantic

(860) 739-7800

https://www.facebook.com/gumdropsnlollipops

Cuisine: Burgers, fries, hot dogs and other classic diner fare; daily specials step outside the box a bit

Atmosphere: 1950s-inspired diner with soda fountain accents; tables by the window offer views of Hole in the Wall Beach

Prices: Quite affordable; the priciest item on the current menu is the chicken tender platter for $9.25

Service: Amazingly friendly and helpful

Hours: Spring/fall/winter hours are 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. daily (10 a.m. to 10 p.m. in the summer)

Credit cards: No American Express; $10 minimum on credit card purchases

Handicapped access: Ramp at front entrance; interior is fairly spacious and diner area quite roomy.