Log In


Reset Password
  • MENU
    Local News
    Monday, May 06, 2024

    Hughie Devlin, whose restaurant was best known for its Love Salad, dies

    Hughie Devlin and his daughter Susan hold a fresh Love Salad in 2005 at Muddy Waters Cafe New London. Susan, the manager of the Bank Street coffeehouse, brought her father's signature dish to the menu after a hiatus of several years. (Sean D. Elliot/The Day)
    Buy Photo Reprints

    New London — Hughie Devlin, a “New London legend” who served his iconic “Love Salad” at Hughie’s Restaurant on Howard Street, has died.

    The New London native was remembered Monday for his generosity and for running a restaurant that people flocked to as much for the garlicky salads served in wooden bowls and shrimp scampi as for the welcoming from Devlin and his family.

    Susan Devlin, one of his daughters, who owns Muddy Waters Café in New London with her husband, Barry Neistat, said her father was funny and kind, and people, from all walks of life, came to him for advice. He made people feel at ease.

    “He was everybody’s friend,” she said.

    Kent Ward, the owner of the Whaling City Boxing Club in New London and a friend of Devlin’s, said everyone in the community loved going to Hughie’s — it was like a Cheers — and he made sure everybody enjoyed their food.

    “It was a gathering place of everyone, from the construction workers, to the politicians, to the lawyers,” Ward said. “Everybody went to Hughie’s.”

    The neighborhood restaurant, a local hangout with a busy bar where people watched sports, had menus shaped like red boxing gloves and boxing photos and memorabilia, including those of his father, Hugh Devlin Sr., lined the walls.

    Although known for its Italian dishes, New York strip steak and garlic that could be smelled blocks away, it was the Love Salad that made Hughie’s famous. It featured iceburg lettuce, tomatoes, salami, provolone cheese, garlic and grated cheese.

    Devlin retired in 2000, after the New London Development Corp. filed eminent domain papers and paid Devlin $1.1 million as part of the planned redevelopment of the Fort Trumbull neighborhood.

    When the restaurant was closing, people came from as far as New York and Vermont, said Susan Devlin. So many people had memories of going to the restaurant for their first date or for graduation celebrations, she said.

    “He knew everybody, and everybody knew him,” she said.

    In his retirement, he was a fixture at Muddy Waters — which still sells his “Love Salad” — and would come each morning, said Neistat.

    Devlin spent the past six years in a nursing home and suffered from Alzheimer’s disease. He died Monday at the age of 87.

    James Bucknavage, who worked at the restaurant for 20 years, called Devlin a “New London legend.” He said he made everyone feel comfortable in his restaurant and loved practical jokes and entertaining people with his stories.

    Devlin also took care of all aspects of the restaurant. If a dishwasher didn’t show up on Saturday night and Devlin was dressed to the nines and about to go out with his wife, he wasn’t too proud to take off his suit, put on jeans and a T-shirt and come to his restaurant to wash the dishes, Bucknavage said.

    Bucknavage said Devlin gave him the nicest compliment, when he used to introduce him by his nickname, and say “Bucky is the son I never had.”

    “He was a great man,” Bucknavage said. “He was a very kind and generous man.”

    He recalled that Devlin was always donating something — from salads to wine to gift cards — and wanted to help the local community. When people were down on their luck, he tried to help them or see if he could offer them a job.

    One time before going on vacation, Devlin told Bucknavage he was going to lend him some more money, because he wanted him to have a “great time,” not just a “good time.”

    “When you started working there you became family,” Bucknavage said.

    “He loved life,” his daughter, Susan Devlin, said. “He just squeezed so much out of 87 years.”

    k.drelich@theday.com

    Comment threads are monitored for 48 hours after publication and then closed.