New London — After several years of searching, the city has found a local restaurateur to run a city-backed concession stand as part of a pilot program on City Pier.

The move, however, has at least one business owner questioning why there was never a formal citywide request for proposals.

Candace and Rachel Devendittis, the owner and chef, respectively, at Dev’s On Bank American Bistro, started serving visitors over the weekend in what the mayor and city councilors say is a much-needed permanent presence on the pier for visitors to the city.

The opening of the concession stand comes in anticipation of the new water taxi service as part of the Thames River Heritage Park.

“The city has been thinking about this for a long time,” City Council President Erica Richardson said. “We’re hoping this will be the start of something. We would like to see things going on (at City Pier) all of the time.”

The Devendittises are expected to run the stand on weekends through Labor Day, assuming costs for payroll and food and beverage.

They will have right to first refusal if they decide to continue next year.

The city is pitching in the space, a shed, electricity and three small tables and chairs for the operation.

The Devendittises operate under the name “Q Concessions” and are expected to sell food and beverages, postcards and magnets while offering maps and directions for visitors.

Business owner Bill Cornish, who voiced his concerns at Monday’s City Council meeting, said Tuesday that because the city did not formally solicit businesses for the venture, “everybody’s talking about this in the business community.”

Cornish is not personally interested in running the stand and called Devendittis a “tremendous businesswoman,” but said a request for proposals might have generated at least some other responses and ensured a fair process.

The lack of a formal process will inevitably lead to rumors of favoritism, he said.

“They should know if you want to be fair, you have to let everyone know about it. I think this was a mistake,” Cornish said. “This thing should have gone out to bid … even a small thing like that.”

Mayor Michael Passero said Tuesday that he was excited Devendittis “had the guts to take the chance,” and open up on the pier with no guarantee of profitability.

Passero said the city heavily advertised last year in an attempt to get a presence on the pier but the one person who signed a contract never showed up.

“We went all summer without a presence,” Passero said.

There appears to have been a less formal effort to solicit businesses this year through the Office of Policy and Development.

Devendittis volunteered her services in a presentation first pitched to the Port Authority.

The City Council earlier this month voted 6-0 to accept the proposal.

Responding to Cornish’s remarks, Richardson said the council would re-examine the process of how a business is chosen next year.

Candace and Rachel Devendittis declined comment.

g.smith@theday.com