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    Saturday, May 11, 2024

    Lee's Kitchen: Stuffed cabbage that goes down easy

    As a child, and to be honest, until I left home for college, I was the pickiest eater ever in the entire world. And perhaps the one thing that I loathed most was cooked cabbage.

    I was always a spoiled child, the younger of two and a girl to boot. My brother went off to college when I was 9 so, for the most part, I was an only child of parents who, at that point, were in their early 50s. If I didn’t like the food at dinner, which we ate in a dining room every night, my mother would make me a kosher bologna sandwich.

    On weekends my mother might make burgers (medium well with very, very lean beef), chicken with orange marmalade or roast chicken (no stuffing, no gravy). The only spice or herb in the kitchen was tinned paprika, the kind that had no flavor.

    Every once in a while, my mother would make cabbage soup, since my parents really liked it. It made me gag. I would go into my bedroom, close the door and make gagging sounds.

    I am not sure when I began to love it, but by the time my parents would come to visit me in Ithaca, New York, she would bring a casserole dish of stuffed cabbage.

    One recent Sunday, in the New York Times Magazine, Sam Sifton wrote about a Swedish woman who, when pregnant, would make Kalpudding, which pretty much sounds like ground beef with cabbage, with lots of other ingredients, like molasses, ground pork, heavy cream and stock. It sounded fabulous. Soon I will try the recipe, but, in the meantime I decided that I absolutely needed my mom’s stuffed cabbage (which she got from her best friend, Betty Lipsky).

    Pauline Aronson’s Stuffed Cabbage

    1 large head of cabbage

    Sauce:

    1 medium-sized can stewed tomatoes

    1 medium-sized can regular tomatoes, broken up

    1 medium onion, sliced

    handful of raisins

    juice of 1 lemon, or to taste

    brown sugar, to taste

    apricot preserves, to taste

    Filling:

    2 pounds lean ground beef

    ½ (one-half) medium or 1 small onion, grated

    few drops of water

    salt and pepper to taste

    To make sauce:

    Combine ingredients, bring to a boil and simmer for 15 minutes to half hour, adjusting lemon, brown sugar and apricot preserves to taste.

    To make filling:

    Combine meat, onion, water, salt and pepper and set aside.

    Meanwhile, remove outer leaves of cabbage and cut out the core. Parboil cabbage until leaves are soft and pliable. Place soft leaves on paper towels. Take a big leaf (with hard part cut out) and wrap a ball of meat in it. Place seam side down in large pot or casserole dish. Continue until meat is gone. (You can stack rolls atop one another as long as pot is large enough to prevent crowding.) Pour sauce on top and bake in slow oven (300 to 325 degrees) for 2 hours.

    This freezes beautifully, if there’s any left. I often double this recipe.

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