I’m not the only one who studies a menu and plans accordingly before trying out a new restaurant, right?

When it came time for me to visit 374 Kitchen & Cocktails in Niantic, I arrived with a list of must-trys and that was before I viewed the cocktail list.

These are good conundra, especially in the context of a packed house on a Friday evening. All signs point to 374 Main St. as the region’s next hot spot, and summer isn’t even upon us.

That Friday, I met up with a friend who’d had about as long a week as I had. Cocktails were in order: for me, the Lemon Drop ($14); for her, the Mezcal Paloma ($14). While the mezcal proved a bit too smokey for her to re-order, my Lemon Drop was a refreshing, tangy libation thanks to an expert hand and a simple, effective recipe: Tito’s vodka, a squeeze of (real) lemon juice and a splash of Cointreau. The Gin Sour ($13) I ordered on another visit became the MVP, however. The resident mixologists know what makes a good cocktail: pure, fresh ingredients, some imagination, and balanced flavor. The gin sour could have easily been a too sweet/sour blend of booze, but at 374 notes of citrus and ginger made the chilled gin a subtle supporting player in all the right ways.

The cuisine at 374 Kitchen & Cocktails is dubbed “elevated comfort food,” so when we spotted bone-in chicken wings on the menu ($12 for five; comes with choice of dip), we had to know how much better a comfort-food staple could be. Wings come with either a dry rub or Buffalo sauce, and in an effort to keep our white shirts clean, we selected the dry rub. While I’m sure the Buffalo sauce is very good, the dry rub was so outstanding I must recommend it. We guessed cumin and perhaps thyme factored into the spice rub, but we were too busy eating the wings to think about it too much. It was zesty, with perfect saltiness, and it accented the plump, very good wings perfectly.

Another comfort food classic that took very well to “elevation” was the tomato bisque ($9; one size), a staple on the “all-day” menu for very good reason. I’ll eat tomato soup any time, any place, but what got me about 374’s was the dollop of whipped creme fraiche upon the silky orange soup. The subtle hint of dairy was a perfect counterpoint to the tangy tomato base, and everything is better with croutons, which added an herb-buttery crunch. Recommended.

Appetite primed, I decided against the crispy chicken sandwich I’d been considering in favor of the Short Rib entree ($32). Short rib is among the fancier comfort foods, but I still think it falls into that category because it’s so reliably enjoyable. Paired with truffle mashed potatoes, you’ve got twice the hit on your hands. Beyond the wise combo, the presentation of the dish was equally impressive. Picture a bed of fluffy, truffle-savory mashed potatoes topped with a layer of crunchy onions and a sizable serving of short rib. The cherry on top in this case is more frizzly onions, and what seems like an afterthought makes a ton of sense at first bite, when the crispy-onion crunch meets with tender, toothy beef and silky potatoes with a bit more crunch beneath. Consider it delicious AND fun to eat!

As firm believers in Dessert as Food Group, we selected the chocolate pots de creme ($7 for a petite serving) from a group of about seven options on the sweets menu. I suspect dessert iterations rotate, but I’ll note that in recent weeks the pots de creme featured a hearty dash of orange zest and orange-bourbon whipped cream on top. I mention it only because the orange flavor is loud and proud, so those looking for a pure chocolate fix are hereby advised. Of course, orange and chocolate go beautifully together, and the deep richness of this particular chocolate creme held up nicely against the brighter citrus flavor. As for the orange-bourbon whipped cream? It’s as wonderful as it sounds, and the orange-ness is much more muted, thereby offering another layer of nuance to the entire dish.

I had to wait for my second visit to try one of the items that had landed on my initial list. Dinner partner #1 is not a fan of deviled eggs, but my resident dining partner is. We’ve observed the retro moment this old-school picnic dish is having in restaurants, and we’re all aboard. At 374, deviled eggs are dusted with Old Bay seasoning and dashed with shoestring onions. If there’s one thing deviled eggs could use, it’s a bit of texture, so bravo to 374 for this excellent solution. The burst of saltiness feels decadent, but don’t overthink it. Besides, an order of deviled eggs ($6) includes three egg halves (why not use the fourth? A mystery to us.), so how much damage can you really do?

If there is one thing you order at 374, please make it the Unlimited Bread Service. For a mere $3, the friendly staff will bring you slices of crusty ciabatta toasted to perfection with your choice of butter and/or oil. We opted for both, and because each option was so fabulous we definitely ate way too much bread that day. Nevertheless, the butter was mixed with fresh herbs and lemon zest and therefore fabulous (with a little peppery kick). The oil was dressed up with seasonings and maybe a drizzle of balsamic vinegar or chili oil, which made for another lovely presentation and spectacular flavor. Prediction? You will agree that this is $3 well spent.

Our last visit to 374 was on May 5, and the kitchen celebrated the Mexican holiday with a few menu specials, including three types of tacos and a beef burrito. I consider all Mexican food to be comforting, so in the interest of science, I had to investigate how 347 would treat a humble dish like beef burritos.

As it turns out, 374 kept it pretty authentic and simply combined fresh pico de gallo, a healthy application of lime juice, queso fresco, chopped tomatoes and lettuce and placed it on top of the FIRST topping of salsa verde. It was a bit like a light salad that distributed itself perfectly. Then, the simple mix of rice, beans, and ground beef within the tortilla set a savory stage for the bright medley above. Once again, a deep understanding of how simple ingredients work and play together will render just about any dish – even a rustic item like beef burritos – extraordinary.

Quite simply, the Formica family has done it again with this classy-casual gathering space, serving well-sourced, lovingly prepared food and drinks. The sense of family and friendship is noticeable upon entry, and we are certain the kinship will only grow as the summer crowds discover our secret.

374 Kitchen + Cocktails

374 Main St., Niantic

(860) 850-5107

374kitchenandcocktails.com

Cuisine: The website offers an excellent description: “Elevated comfort food.” Think crispy chicken sandwiches, deviled eggs, and short rib with mashed potatoes; plus craft cocktails. “Brunch for lunch” is available every day, plus a late-night menu with a few selections from the main menu.

Atmosphere: Beach-house chic. From the TV fireplace to the bright white walls and rich wood accents, comfort and class are the order of the day. An outdoor patio with about eight tables will be mobbed by Memorial Day.

Service: Welcoming and attentive

Hours: Sunday-Wednesday 10:30 a.m.-9 p.m.; Thursday-Saturday, 10:30 a.m.-11 p.m.

Credit cards: Accepted

Reservations: Accepted and easily doable on the website

Handicapped accessibility: Parking is on-street only, and the public lot is more than a few steps from the restaurant. There are steps to enter and within the restaurant.