Log In


Reset Password
  • MENU
    Local News
    Thursday, May 02, 2024

    Lee's Kitchen: A simple vegetarian dish from a Fine Cooking editor

    The past couple weeks included good news for those of us who love food.

    My friend Virginia Willis mentioned on Facebook that Houghton Mifflin Harcourt recently expanded its cookbook and lifestyle programs.

    In other good news, two cookbook writers I admire have books coming out, both of which I ordered on Amazon. Joan Nathan, who has done more than anyone to bring Jewish cooking to the forefront, just published “King Solomon’s Table,” and once I try a few of her recipes, I will share one or two with you.

    The other is Susie Middleton’s “Simple Green Suppers.” When Taunton Press published “Fine Cooking” magazine, Susie was a writer and editor, and one of her first features was summer vegetable gratin, a recipe which wins raves whenever I take it to a party.

    At one point during her tenure (she had been a chef, too), she decided she really wanted to be a farmer and today, in addition to being an editor-at-large at Fine Cooking, has what she calls a “farmette” in Martha’s Vineyard and sells her produce at a small farmstand.

    The concept of her new book is subtitled “A Fresh Strategy for One-Dish Vegetarian Meals.” With vegetarians over for supper this weekend, this is one of my entrees.

    Broccoli Raab and Creamy Goat Cheese Baked Pasta Gratin

    From Simple Green Suppers by Susie Middleton (Roost Books, Boulder, CO, 2017)

    Yield: serves 2 to 3

    4 ounces small- to medium-pastas, such as gemelli or small elbows

    4 cups roughly chopped tender tops and leaves of broccoli raab

    1 cup fresh bread crumbs (she likes English muffins)

    One-quarter cup plus 3 tablespoons coarsely grated parmesan cheese

    1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

    1 and one-half cups heavy cream

    2 large garlic cloves, smashed and peeled

    Freshly ground black pepper

    One-half teaspoon freshly grated lemon zest

    2 to 3 ounces fresh goat cheese, crumbled while still cold

    Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Grease bottom and sides of a 5- to 6-cup shallow gratin dish with butter. Bring a small (5- to 6-quart) stock pot of salted water to a boil and add the pasta. Cook pasta until just 2 to 3 minutes shy of the suggested time on the package. Add broccoli raab to the boiling water and cook for 2 or 3 minutes. Drain pasta and raab in a fine mesh colander. Let sit for a few minutes, tossing occasionally to release water.

    In as small bowl, combine bread crumbs, 3 tablespoons parmesan, olive oil and pinch of salt and stir well, Set aside.

    In a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, bring cream and smashed garlic just to a boil (watch it carefully so it does not suddenly bubble up and overflow). Remove pan from the heat and let sit for 10 minutes to allow garlic to infuse the cream. Remove the garlic cloves (or not!) and season with one-half teaspoon salt, a few grinds of black pepper and the lemon zest. Stir well.

    Put the pasta and broccoli raab into a medium mixing bowl. Add goat cheese and remaining one-quarter cup parmesan. Pour the infused cream over the pasta mixture and stir well. Transfer to prepared gratin dish and spread evenly. Top with bread crumb mixture. Bake gratin until crumbs are golden brown and liquid have reduced to below the crumb level (there will be a light brown ring around the edge of the dish), about 35 minutes. Let sit for 5 to 10 minutes before serving.

    Comment threads are monitored for 48 hours after publication and then closed.