Favorite food of 2021
Favorite newly sampled dishes and new restaurants: The Day’s Kristina Dorsey and Rick Koster offer up some of their food-centric discoveries and preferences of 2021.
Tao
Mohegan Sun
Even if you didn’t get any actual food, just seeing the interior of Tao would be worth the trip. The design is wonderfully imaginative, from the waterfall walls on either side of a short bridge that brings you into the dining room, where you see a 16-foot-tall statue of the Buddhist goddess Quan Yin, with her multitudinous arms extending around her. And then, yes, the cuisine is amazing, too.
— Kristina Dorsey
Rico Chow
Williams Street, New London
This tiny storefront is fast becoming the heart of the Hodges Square neighborhood. It’s a dream-realized concept for two old pals with culinary aspirations, and their visionary idea to mix Asian and Puerto Rican cuisine is a non-stop dance competition of flavors on your tongue. The dishes are all good; the smart strategy is to work your way through the menu.
— Rick Koster
Small Bites
Dev’s on Main
Main Street, Niantic
Dev’s moved from New London to Niantic this year, and the new location cleverly reimagines the space that last was a Dunkin’ Donuts. A small deck out front is perfect for temperate summer days. As always, the food is delicious; I tend to get a few “Small Bites” and have been quite happy with the Surf & Turf, the Lobster Bombe, the Seared Salmon, and the Vegetable Pot Stickers.
— Kristina Dorsey
Meatloaf Special
Mr. G’s
Williams Street, New London
There are many things about Mr. G’s — from the food to the familial service and atmosphere — that define “comfort.” But on those occasions when the meatloaf dinner pops up on the daily special sheet, take the experience to the next level and jump on it! (Well, not literally, although the thick slab of greatness does seem matress shaped, now that I think about it.) As you enjoy the sublime meatloaf-iness of it all, pause a moment to remember restaurant co-founder George Gianakos, who passed away earlier this year.
— Rick Koster
Miss Florence’s Teas
Florence Griswold Museum, Old Lyme
One of the upsides of the pandemic is we all tried activities we hadn’t before. I finally had time to get to one of Miss Florence’s Teas at the end of 2020 and thought, “I should have been coming here sooner!” It’s such a pretty, genteel setting — inside the exquisite Flo Gris building, overlooking the Lieutenant River — and the array of tea sandwiches and sweets (catered by Gourmet Galley) are absolutely delish. Even though I’m not a big tea fan, I did enjoy the cuppa I sipped here. A word of warning: These Christmastime teas are hugely popular, so the earlier you make your reservations, the better. They sell out quickly.
— Kristina Dorsey
Taquerio
Broadway Avenue, Mystic
Located in an old service station with a supremely hip art deco makeover, Taquerio specializes in small, hand-crafted, Mexican-style street tacos. Pork, barbacoa, fish and plantains are all wise selections, and each is accompanied by a particular sauce or condiments that play to the highlights of the particular recipe. And do NOT leave without indulging in the cinnamon/caramel glories of their churros.
— Rick Koster
Huarache
La Llorona
13 Hope St., Niantic
You knew that this new venue was a success as soon as it first opened; lines to get in were a steady feature. Of course, if the offerings weren’t tasty, those crowds would have dissipated very quickly. La Llorona has remained popular, and for good reason. My favorite there: the Huarache, which is a flat bread dish featuring refried beans, epazote pesto, Oaxaca cheese, shredded lettuce, and crema fresca.
— Kristina Dorsey
Breakfast burrito
When Pigs Fly
Rope Ferry Road, Waterford
The joys of being a reporter! I had breakfast at When Pigs Fly so I could write about it for The Day’s “best breakfast” contest. I had been there before, but this time, I discovered the beauty of the venue’s breakfast burrito. It’s mammoth, which is something I always appreciate in my dishes. And it’s soooo tasty. It mixes eggs, sausage, black beans, salsa and cheddar inside the wrap, with a side of home fries.
— Kristina Dorsey
Hamburger and Black Olive Pizza
College Pizza
Pequot Avenue, New London
This is the part of the world where pizza was invented. There are dozens if not hundreds of practitioners across our region who make wonderful pizza. On any given day, arguments can persuasively be made that one or another is the best. Time after time, though, I find myself ordering the hamburger and black olive pie from this small place wedged between Sell Fish and Fred’s Shanty. Thin crust, great sauce-to-cheese ratio, and loads of toppings. Do I eat other pizzas from other restaurants? Hell, yeah! You think I’m crazy? But ...
— Rick Koster
Draft Choice
State Street, New London
This welcoming bar, with its splendid menu of local craft brews and a terrific beer garden out back, is one of those COVID success stories. Husband and wife co-owners Beto Zuniga and Anne Bernhard opened Draft Choice shortly before the first wave of the pandemic hit and then held on. We’re all better for it. There’s a small menu of well-prepared bar food — definitely try the house-made chipoltle salsa — and this is a fine place for a pre- or post-show rendezvous given that the Garde is across the street.
— Rick Koster
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