You’ll like it at the only Gino’s Pizza in the world: Or at least the only Gino’s Pizza in Mystic

September 06, 2023 1:45 pm • Last Updated: September 06, 2023 1:45 pm

By Rick Koster
Day Arts/Features writer

As I sat down in a booth recently at Gino’s Pizza in Mystic, I thought, “This is probably the only pizza place in the world named ‘Gino’s.’”

Kidding.

Grecian Supreme pizza at Gino’s in Mystic.

To be fair, the full name of the place is “Gino’s Pizza and Sports Bar of Mystic,” which will be hard to cram onto their softball jerseys (in the event that Gino sponsors a team at some point).

Mozzarella wedges at Gino’s Pizza.

In any case, if Gino’s is unfamiliar to you, well, that’s because, for years, the building housed Christo’s Pizza. But the place changed ownership and now it’s Gino’s. If even that draws a blank, it could be because, of several pizza places or restaurants that serve pizza in Mystic – from the iconic Mystic Pizza and beloved Angie’s Pizza and Pier 27 to Pizzetti, Mango’s to Anthony J’s to Andiamo — Gino’s is the only one on “the other side” of I-95. Not the commercial district, in other words.

Gino’s is tucked into that string of businesses that includes a True Value hardware store, that long-shuttered hotel and a Dunkin’. So, if you can’t find parking downtown and appeasement will only come from a pizza, Gino’s is certainly an option.

A pretty good one, I’ve discovered. The original space, which had a small dining room and a quasi-private, even smaller bar in the back. As per Gino’s vision, the dining room remains the same, but the restaurant’s floor space has doubled with the titular sports bar expanding beyond the original rear wall.

There’s a high, peaked ceiling, ski lodge-style, with warm knotty pine walls, a large, rectangular bar in the center, and several large screen televisions mounted all around.

I’m perfectly comfortable up front or back in the bar area, and the staff was friendly and quick.

The menu pretty much exemplifies what happens when you fuse a pizza joint and a sports bar. The pizza seems, through its crust and a few specials, Greek style, as well as gyros, but there are also hot and cold grinders and several Italianate pasta meals and calzones. And for the sports fan craving the stereotypical “watch the ballgame and snack” experience, count on chili, nachos, burgers, fish and chips and a hot lobster roll, “specialty” hot dogs and sandwiches, and food for kiddos.

A pleasant place to be

So far, I’ve mostly enjoyed the food. For starters, I’ve tried the chili ($5.29 cup, $6.99 bowl), which had a slightly odd, pureed quality, but there was also a solid beefy flavor, a few beans for texture, and a pleasant warmth that sneaked up on me. No onions or cheese topping, which I feel is almost obligatory, but it worked just fine. Another appetizer was a plate of mozzarella wedges ($9.99). They came out remarkably fast — perhaps pre-made and microwaved? — but the 10 fried cheese pieces were enjoyably gooey with a thin fried crust accent and a warm, tangy dipping bowl of marinara.

Pizzas come in three sizes ($9.99, $15.99 and $19.99, toppings $1.35, $2.75 and $3.35). The small is perfect for solo consumption. My first attempt was a plain red pie with hamburger. The crust was chewy and buttery, the sauce-to-cheese mixture just right, and a generous scattering of ground hamburger was much appreciated in an era when folks often skimp on toppings.

My second time I happily explored the Grecian Supreme from the specialty options. Comprising a playful combination of feta, black olives, pepperocini, tomatoes and an indeterminate but almost Middle Eastern spice, the crisply baked effort was something I’ll go back for this pie — happily.

I’ve also eaten an Italian combo grinder ($9.99 and $12.99). This was one of those versions with no mortadella or capicola but, instead, two varieties of salami and ham. The roll was fresh and soft, the lettuce and tomato refrigerator-cool, and a generous amount of meat and provolone, with salt, pepper and oil, worked well.

My only disappointment was a Georgia red hot ($9.99) from the hot dog corner of the menu. It was smaller than the red hots I associate with the south and, while containing a bit of spice, wasn’t near as playfully incendiary as I’d like. I requested the sauerkraut topping to be left off; the sharp yellow mustard and chopped relish balanced nicely. It wasn’t worth the price.

Pizza People, stand apprised: there IS an option on the other side of I-95 — and parking isn’t a problem. Also worth noting: They’ve started serving breakfast, and I have no qualms about trying that out soon.