During a recent holidayesque visit to Texas, a friend brought a gift for me to a party: a six pack of Abita Christmas Ale from that most excellent brewery in Mandeville, Louisiana. It's velvety, smooth and with a heady mix of spices that make it a fine companion for everything from party dips to actual gingerbread or pumpkin pie. A lot of area liquor stores carry Abita products, though you might have to make a special request. Don't hesitate - and don't worry if you actually miss Christmas proper. This is a splendid winter brew.