If you frequented the dear, departed Saybrook Soup and Sandwich in Old Saybrook, you’ll have to squint a bit to remember it when you look at 745 Osteria, the new Italian eatery that’s opened in the same location at 745 Boston Post Road.

The menu at 745 Osteria has much to offer fans of Italian food, including pasta dishes, Neapolitan pizzas, special entrees, and an appetizer list that would be a perfect date-night-at-the-bar option. We sampled all of the above with great results – so great, we couldn’t fit dessert after a recent dinner, but that will be rectified soon.

What’s an osteria, you ask? Per Wikipedia, “An osteria in Italy was originally a place serving wine and simple food.” In Old Saybrook, you can get both and then some, but I’d hesitate to call the fare “simple.”

Ditto for the drinks. From a long, intriguing list of house cocktails, the Limoncello Spritz ($13) seemed an obvious choice on a breezy summer day. The drink pairs prosecco with a splash of limoncello served over ice, and it was lovely. Not too sweet, not too bitey, and absolutely refreshing.

That night, we started with an appetizer – the beautiful and delightful 745 Bread Service ($10). Served upon a light wooden board, a variety of focaccia and other house-made breads are paired with three spreads: truffle honey buffalo ricotta butter; whipped butter; and a savory molasses glaze. We would’ve been content to enjoy plain focaccia with such inspired accompaniments, but the dish also included breads topped with cheese, a cured pepperoni-like meat with cheese, and chopped mushrooms and cheese. (In case you’re wondering, truffle honey buffalo ricotta butter is as delicious as it sounds.)

We somehow managed to choose only two main-event dishes from several great options. Of course, when there is something called Burrata pizza on the menu ($19), the choice becomes a bit easier. (Plus, that’s a dish best served and consumed immediately.) This pie included two things we love: the titular burrata and fluffy arugula, upon which the burrata perches center stage. As advertised, the crust had perfect Neapolitan flavor and texture. Combine all three of those things with outstanding San Marzano tomatoes, and you’ve got a pizza to remember. Officially: You can eat your greens and pizza at the same time.

I chose Chicken Parmigiano as dish number two ($25). Not the most adventurous choice, but I like to see how popular dishes are recreated across various restaurants. Be assured that 745 Osteria not only renders the chicken perfectly, it also infuses the entire dish with bright, fresh flavor. From the crisp breading on the tender chicken cutlets to the outstanding tomato sauce and perfect pasta, happiness awaits fans of this dish.

On another night, the Tre Carni pizza came home with me ($20). Topped with prosciutto, salami, and (fabulous) sweet sausage, this pie isn’t for the casual meat-eater although it’s not without nuance. It’s quite rich, but another base of excellent Neapolitan dough balanced out the smoky/sweet/salty flavor on top.

We were already well on our way to a great meal thanks to our starter appetizer of arancini ($11 for three). Arancini is one of our usual appetizer picks at Italian restaurants, and 745 Osteria’s rendition of the fried rice balls are among the best I’ve sampled. Each rice ball was dotted with basil aioli, which transformed the flavor profile beautifully. The pungent green flavor notes amplified the savory cheese mixed into the rice, while the texture of both the rice and the breading made for a pleasing package.

After perusing it, we are hereby prepared to sample the entire 745 Osteria pasta menu. To kick things off, we selected the Bucatini Amatriciana ($22). It’s a dish we’ve never tried but we do love the thick, tubular texture of bucatini and we were intrigued by the menu description. Amatriciana sauce features smoked pork, hot peppers, San Marzanos, onions and a dash of herbs, resulting in a memorable flavor experience. You get smoky heat with a pop of citrus-like tomato flavor and earthy fragrant herbal notes enfolding pasta with just the right texture – the flavors of summer and fall, all in one pot.

The menu at 745 Osteria has added several items to our to-do list, with a dessert date over cannolis at the top of it. Based on our tasting tour, I think more date nights will continue filling the tables at 745 Osteria for the foreseeable future.

745 Osteria

745 Boston Post Road, Old Saybrook

(860) 339-3107

https://745osteria.com/

Cuisine: Neapolitan pizzeria and Italian cuisine; takeout available

Atmosphere: Choose from the outdoor patio, bar area, or dining room in a beach house chic environment. Tall ceilings add a grander sense of space.

Service: Very good and well paced

Hours: Tuesday-Sunday, 4:30-9 p.m. (Closed Monday)

Prices: Pricey. Pasta dishes run from $16 to $25; pizzas average about $19 (one size, and smallish); appetizer prices offer a few more less costly options, including the arancini ($11) and 745 Bread Service ($10)

Accessibility: A smooth, long ramp runs from the parking area to the entrance.

Credit cards: Yes