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    Monday, June 17, 2024

    The Chef’s Table at Little Dipper Farm in Brooklyn is well worth the trip

    The Atlantic Scallops at the Chef’s Table at Little Dipper Farm in Brooklyn, Conn. (Ann Baldelli)
    Duck Rillette Toast (Ann Baldelli)
    Flatbread and whipped butter at the Chef’s Table (Ann Baldelli)
    Duck Fat Roasted Potatoes at the Chef’s Table at Little Dipper Farm (Ann Baldelli)
    Blueberry Buckle with Vanilla Ice Cream
    Marinated Beet Salad (Ann Baldelli)
    The Northeast Steak Cut (Ann Baldelli)
    The interior of the barn at Little Dipper Farm (Ann Baldelli)
    Little Dipper Farm at dusk (Ann Baldelli)
    A table setting at the Chef’s Table at Little Dipper Farm (Ann Baldelli)

    Always on the lookout for a new place to try, I heard from a friend about the Chef’s Table at Little Dipper Farm in Brooklyn, Conn., in July.

    We have been twice since, most recently in mid-September, and enjoyed both visits. Many readers will know this property as the former Golden Lamb Buttery, a beloved family-owned farm and restaurant that closed in late 2017 after more than five decades in business.

    Reopened last December, with new owners at the farm and a new chef in the restaurant, the Chef’s Table is off to a roaring start.

    Brian Paszko worked at a variety of West Coast restaurants after earning his degree at Johnson & Wales. He then returned to Boston in 2016, where he did stints at several known eateries before assuming the executive chef role at Alcove. Now, at the Chef’s Table, his focus is “seed to plate,” a new, more specific description of farm to table that encompasses the Little Dipper vegetables and herbs he uses for his dishes.

    All of it is very, very good. On our September visit, we had guests who had bid to dine with a food critic at a fundraiser for the LaGrua Center, a nonprofit presenting concerts, art exhibitions, and speakers on a variety of topics in Stonington Borough. Our guests would help to critique the food, presentation, service, and all the rest.

    For the most part, it was a very positive experience, although service was a bit spotty. The food, however, got rave reviews.

    There were five appetizers on the menu, and we agreed to order all five and share. It is hard to say which one was the best, because each one shined in its own way. But if a gold star is to be awarded, it goes to the Duck Fat Roasted Potatoes, $12, which were served with black garlic sour cream and garden-fresh herbs. They were sinfully delicious.

    Also very good was the Tomato Salad, $14, with cucumbers, pickled onion, garlic bread crumbs, and goat cheese. The crunch of the cukes with the tasty tomatoes and pickled onions helped to temper those glorious duck fat roasted potatoes.

    The Marinated Beet Salad, $14, was pretty to look at and even better to eat. It was a large portion of perfectly cooked, bite-sized beets dressed with Aleppo spiced yogurt and dill. Fresh, fresh, fresh! That is what we all kept saying: “Everything is so fresh.”

    The four of us enjoyed the Duck Rillette Toast, $16. The duck was creamy and the ciabatta that it was served on crispy but not hard. Seasoned with a Dijon mustard, the dish was flavorful and pretty, with tomatillos scattered on the plate.

    We sampled the Cato Corner Farmstead Cheese Plate, $18, as well as the house made Bread & Butter, $5. The flatbread comes in a small bowl on a heap of whipped butter. The thin, crispy bread is more like a cracker, and that airy, sweet butter – well, it is extraordinary. Evidently everyone else thinks so, too, as you can buy a tub to take home with you.

    For entrees, we agreed to divide and conquer, with everyone trying something different. The winner here is a toss-up between the Bolognese, $33, and the Atlantic Scallops, $34. They are totally different dishes, and each one was flawlessly executed.

    The scallops were gorgeous. I know, who describes scallops as good looking? But this plate was so handsome. Five, big plump perfectly seared scallops plated over zucchini puree, with wilted kale, and pesto. We marveled over every bite.

    The Bolognese was laden with meat and a light red sauce over cavatelli with grated parmesan-Reggiano cheese and those garlic bread crumbles. We ate every mouthful.

    This was a splurge, so we decided to go with the pricey steak, which we were told was a ribeye and was billed as the Northeast Steak Cut. It was $58 and served with Romaine leaves drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled with chopped herbs and more of those insane potatoes. That’s a lot of money for a steak, although again, it was a big portion, perfectly cooked, and served with a flavorsome Bordeaux au jus.

    The final entrée we shared was the Half Chicken, $28. I am running out of ways to say good, but the chicken was delicious. The exterior skin was crispy with a glaze and the meat cut-with-a-fork tender. This dish was served with quinoa, an eggplant caponata, and a sauce made from honey that had a real kick to it. If you do not like a bit of a jolt, this may not be for you.

    We suspect that out waitress was a veteran, and good at what she does, but as more diners arrived and the indoor and outdoor tables filled up, the service slipped. We decided she had too many tables to wait on.

    There were a couple of unfortunate slip-ups, including bringing us the check before our table was cleared and before anyone asked if we wanted dessert or coffee. Earlier, a cocktail had been served but not the way it was ordered. When we questioned why, we were told they were missing an ingredient that had been specifically asked for. We would have preferred to be told beforehand and have had the opportunity to order something different.

    We did manage to order the highly touted Blueberry Buckle with Vanilla Ice Cream, $13, and two of the three of us who ate it agreed it was a mouthwatering finale to an exceptionally good dinner. The third was expecting a cobbler, not a cake baked with fruit and topped with streusel. Regardless, we ate every crumb.

    From southeastern Connecticut, it is a hike to Little Dipper Farm but worth the trip. Go early, so you can enjoy the foliage and explore the barn, and make sure to bring your appetite.

    Chef’s Table at Little Dipper Farm

    499 Wolf Den Road, Brooklyn, Conn.

    (860) 412-0038

    Search Chef’s Table at Little Dipper Farm to find them on social media

    Food: The menu is simple, but there’s enough variety to offer options for every appetite, with an emphasis on fresh garden herbs and produce. Clearly, the chef has mastered his craft creating hearty, flavorful dishes, from starters to desserts.

    Atmosphere: There is nothing quite like the Chef’s Table at Little Dipper Farm, which is literally located in the picturesque red barn at the sprawling 588-acre working farm. With massively high ceilings, rustic barn-board walls and floors, and Mason jars filled with fresh-picked flowers, dining indoors is a treat. Or, if the weather cooperates, take a seat on the back deck, and look out on cows and horses grazing not far from the big pond.

    Alcohol: Yes

    Hours: Dinner, Thursday to Sunday, 4 to 10 p.m.

    Prices: Not inexpensive but reasonable for what you get.

    Credit cards: Yes

    Handicapped accessible: There are a couple of steps and the floors are a bit wobbly, but with assistance most anyone should be able to get in.

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