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    Sunday, July 21, 2024

    Review: Go eat at the new Go Fish

    The Playboy Roll at Go Fish, which is now located in the Mystic section of Stonington (Ann Baldelli)
    Go Fish’s Drunken Noodles (Ann Baldelli)
    The Crispy Tempura Cod at Go Fish (Ann Baldelli)
    Go Fish’s new location is in the Mystic section of Stonington. (Ann Baldelli)
    The Miso Glazed Salmon at Go Fish (Ann Baldelli)
    Go Fish’s house salad (Ann Baldelli)
    The Seared Tuna special at Go Fish (Ann Baldelli)
    The Honolulu Roll at Go Fish (Ann Baldelli
    Go Fish’s Tuna Poke (Ann Baldelli)

    When Jon Kodama, the senior diplomat of local restaurateurs, closed his Go Fish restaurant of more than 25 years in the Olde Mistick Village a couple of years ago, many wondered if he would reopen the place in a new location as he said he would.

    There were doubters who questioned the long delay, about 14 months, as Kodama navigated the permitting, gutting and rebuilding of the former Sailor Ed’s, near the Big Y supermarket off Route 1, in the Mystic section of Stonington.

    Finally, late last year, he reopened, a new restaurant in a new location with the same name – Go Fish – but an updated look, menu and attitude.

    The place has been a big success and is attracting many more locals than it did in its former location in the busy tourist hub of Olde Mistick Village by the Mystic Aquarium.

    Since reopening last December, Kodama has tweaked the menu that a consulting chef helped to devise, listening to his patrons and refining the offerings to suit their preferences.

    We have visited several times and have always found the food and service to be very good. If you like sashimi or sushi, you really must visit. There is an extensive menu, and if you sit at the sushi bar, you can watch the chefs in action.

    One of our favorites is the Honolulu Roll, $15, with tuna, cucumber, avocado and sprouts. The Playboy, $20, is an oversized roll of shrimp tempura, tuna, avocado, wasabi, Thai chili and eel. We have also enjoyed the California Rainbow Roll, with salmon, tuna and avocado, for $20. The rolls are large enough to share, or enjoy with a cocktail.

    For starters, in addition to raw bar items like clams, oysters and shrimp, they serve poke bowls, tuna nachos, edamame, bao buns, dumplings, shrimp ceviche, as well as salads and both miso and hot and sour soup. Prices range from $6 for the edamame, $20 for the Tokyo Nachos, $21 for the Bao Buns, and $9 for the Go Fish Salad.

    Speaking of that house salad, it’s one of the prettiest you will ever see – a scoop of baby greens piled on a plate and ringed with thin sliced cucumbers and watermelon radishes. There are chopped vegetables sprinkled in the greens, as well as cashews and blood orange segments, and it is all dressed in a sweet soy vinaigrette. It is healthy and very, very good.

    There are several favorite entrees among family and friends, including the Drunken Noodles, $36, the Crispy Tempura Cod, $28, and the Miso Glazed Salmon, $35. But you really can’t go wrong with whatever you order, and there are daily specials, like the Seared Tuna, $34, that we tried last week.

    The slabs of seared tuna were rare and stacked on a sushi rice cake with blistered shishito peppers, sauteed mushrooms and red peppers, and a passion fruit sauce. The rice cake was crisp in all the right places and the tuna, firm and slightly sweet. The dish was as delicious as it was pretty to look at.

    Every time we go, someone in our party gets the Drunken Noodles. The broad, flat, spicy rice noodles arrive in a bowl with scallops, shrimp, clams and broccolini. The portion is substantial and the seafood, perfectly executed. The scallops are plump and juicy and the shrimp, with their tails removed, crisp. They give you a little fork and bowl to discard the clam shells after you tug out the meat.

    The Crispy Tempura Cod is a sophisticated take on fish and chips. There are two pieces of cod, coated in a thin batter and fried. It is light and airy and tasty and oh so good. The fish is served with a sesame-scallion slaw, fries, and sides of citrus aioli and tartar sauce. This Go Fish dish will make you rethink the standard fish and chips that so many of us enjoy.

    The steak of Miso Glazed Salmon is served with chopped peanuts, broccolini, and what the menu describes as “Dan Dan noodles.” Beware, the noodles have a kick. I wasn’t familiar with them, so I did a little research and found this on a food website: “… iconic spicy Sichuan noodles, a flavor explosion with slippery noodles tossed in an intense spicy sesame sauce and pork.” Between all of us at the table, we didn’t leave a single noodle on the plate. We ate every bite.

    Go Fish is a seafood restaurant, but there are options for those who would rather not indulge in proteins from the sea. There is a half roasted chicken on the menu, as well as a braised pork shoulder with five-spice sweet potato mash, a double Wagyu beef burger, and steak frites. The new space is bright and welcoming, and the hostess at the door has always greeted us with a smile.

    Jon Kodama has been running restaurants in southeastern Connecticut for more than 50 years, and he hasn’t lost his touch. He knows what it takes to please customers.

    Go Fish

    29 Old Stonington Road, Stonington

    (860) 536-2662


    You can search their name to find them on Instagram and Facebook.

    Atmosphere: Bright, with clean lines, contemporary furniture, minimal art, big windows, multiple dining spaces, and a good-sized bar. There is an open kitchen and a separate sushi bar. The space is refreshing and welcoming.

    Cuisine: The menu is heavy on fish and sushi, with an Asia-meets-Hawaii-and-California vibe, or what is known as Pacific Rim cuisine, combining Pacific Island foods with Asian cooking techniques, California freshness, and myriad culinary and cultural influences.

    Alcohol: Full-service bar

    Hours: 4 to 9 p.m. Tuesday to Saturday; noon to 8 p.m. Sunday, closed Monday.

    Service: Very good

    Prices: Entrees $24 to $38, appetizers $6 to $21, sashimi and sushi $7 to $21.

    Credit cards: Yes

    Handicapped accessibility: Yes

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