La Belle Aurore: Serving up fresh and local food with flare

February 15, 2010 11:00 pm • Last Updated: February 19, 2010 9:04 am

By By KARIN CROMPTON

La Belle Aurore's dining room.

Anyone interested in learning about the "locavore" concept - eating and buying food locally - might want to check out La Belle Aurore in Niantic.The little restaurant, which despite its name is not French, is tucked between a Dairy Queen and a dry cleaning business. It has quickly established itself as the place to go for fresh food made almost entirely, and creatively, from local ingredients.

The little restaurant, which despite its name is not French, is tucked between a Dairy Queen and a dry cleaning business. It has quickly established itself as the place to go for fresh food made almost entirely, and creatively, from local ingredients.The menu, currently titled, "November 2009," includes items like pumpkin and chard salad; an autumn vegetable curry; a wild mushroom tart with brie; and shrimp with fig glaze over root vegetable cakes with Asian greens. The restaurant serves brunch Friday through Sunday.

The menu, currently titled, "November 2009," includes items like pumpkin and chard salad; an autumn vegetable curry; a wild mushroom tart with brie; and shrimp with fig glaze over root vegetable cakes with Asian greens. The restaurant serves brunch Friday through Sunday.Husband and wife Dawn and Wally Bruckner opened the restaurant, long a dream of Dawn's, in November 2005. Immediately, Wally Bruckner said, his wife ripped out the fryolators. Nothing is fried or frozen.

Husband and wife Dawn and Wally Bruckner opened the restaurant, long a dream of Dawn's, in November 2005. Immediately, Wally Bruckner said, his wife ripped out the fryolators. Nothing is fried or frozen."In the height of the season, we're probably within 85 to 90 percent of everything," Wally Bruckner says, "which reduces the carbon footprint tremendously."

"In the height of the season, we're probably within 85 to 90 percent of everything," Wally Bruckner says, "which reduces the carbon footprint tremendously."The takeout packaging for leftovers is all biodegradable and the eggshells and coffee grounds go to the compost heap at White Gate Farm, an organic farm located in the northern part of town where the restaurant also buys many of its ingredients.

The takeout packaging for leftovers is all biodegradable and the eggshells and coffee grounds go to the compost heap at White Gate Farm, an organic farm located in the northern part of town where the restaurant also buys many of its ingredients.Although Dawn Bruckner changes it monthly, the menu also includes staples like filet mignon, rainbow trout and duck.

Although Dawn Bruckner changes it monthly, the menu also includes staples like filet mignon, rainbow trout and duck.Dawn Bruckner adds that the menu includes vegetarian and gluten-free options, though it doesn't always point them out. Most diners looking for those options know what they're looking for, and others can be scared away by the label, she says.

Dawn Bruckner adds that the menu includes vegetarian and gluten-free options, though it doesn't always point them out. Most diners looking for those options know what they're looking for, and others can be scared away by the label, she says."We try to do it without preaching or putting a big red sticker on it."

"We try to do it without preaching or putting a big red sticker on it."Dawn Bruckner is always willing to make something special or modify a dish if the restaurant has the ingredients on hand.

Dawn Bruckner is always willing to make something special or modify a dish if the restaurant has the ingredients on hand.The Bruckners moved here from Washington D.C., where, Dawn says, the local dining movement had already caught on. That it hadn't gained a foothold here caught her by surprise, she says, although she's beginning to see more enthusiasm for it.

The Bruckners moved here from Washington D.C., where, Dawn says, the local dining movement had already caught on. That it hadn't gained a foothold here caught her by surprise, she says, although she's beginning to see more enthusiasm for it."It's something different here. We're definitely the weird kids on the block and it took a little while."

"It's something different here. We're definitely the weird kids on the block and it took a little while."The Bruckners are still a little perplexed at the makeup of their regular clientele, which tends to come from out of town more than within. They've also learned the hard way about one of the quirks of East Lyme: locals view the approximately seven to 10 minute drive from Flanders to Niantic as a long one.

The Bruckners are still a little perplexed at the makeup of their regular clientele, which tends to come from out of town more than within. They've also learned the hard way about one of the quirks of East Lyme: locals view the approximately seven to 10 minute drive from Flanders to Niantic as a long one."I'll have people calling- 'I'm from Flanders, how far are you?'" Dawn Bruckner says.

"I'll have people calling- 'I'm from Flanders, how far are you?'" Dawn Bruckner says.They ran into another challenge last fall. Just when they had gained some momentum and hit the start of their third year - the make-it-or-break-it year, Dawn says - the economy soured.

They ran into another challenge last fall. Just when they had gained some momentum and hit the start of their third year - the make-it-or-break-it year, Dawn says - the economy soured.She's had to be more creative and says the restaurant now offers half and full portions, meaning someone can try out a dish for about 10 dollars. She's also toying with a fixed price menu for this winter; it will probably cost about $25 and include two appetizers, an entree and dessert, with three selections in each category.

She's had to be more creative and says the restaurant now offers half and full portions, meaning someone can try out a dish for about 10 dollars. She's also toying with a fixed price menu for this winter; it will probably cost about $25 and include two appetizers, an entree and dessert, with three selections in each category.Although the restaurant doesn't offer a children's menu, it is child-friendly, she adds. Kids have always eaten the same food she offers at the restaurant.

Although the restaurant doesn't offer a children's menu, it is child-friendly, she adds. Kids have always eaten the same food she offers at the restaurant.The Bruckners are optimistic that the locavore movement will continue to grow - and with it, their clientele. And they will continue to promote the idea that La Belle Aurore offers something different.

The Bruckners are optimistic that the locavore movement will continue to grow - and with it, their clientele. And they will continue to promote the idea that La Belle Aurore offers something different."We know going in, we're not for everybody - even though we believe we are," Wally Bruckner says, adding it's a matter of perception versus reality.

"We know going in, we're not for everybody - even though we believe we are," Wally Bruckner says, adding it's a matter of perception versus reality."The crowd that is looking for fries with their entree, the crowd that's looking for large belly-filling platters hanging off the side (with food), we're not that," he says. "We're not a clamshack, it's not coming from the freezer, we're not buying from major food providers and repurposing it."

"The crowd that is looking for fries with their entree, the crowd that's looking for large belly-filling platters hanging off the side (with food), we're not that," he says. "We're not a clamshack, it's not coming from the freezer, we're not buying from major food providers and repurposing it."