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    Saturday, April 27, 2024

    Lee's Kitchen: Back to the ‘70s with pork Marbella

    The first cookbook I ever had came with a carton full of encyclopedias. Back in those days, a salesman (always a salesman) came to your house and tried to sell encyclopedias. My ex-husband and I, parents of a very young daughter, believed in education so we bought the whole deal.

    We had very little money, so I guess we paid for the set over a year or so. It may have even been before credit cards.

    Darcy was probably less than a year old, we were living in Ithaca, N.Y., and I remember reading the encyclopedias and showing Darcy the pictures.

    But I was more interested in the big cookbook that came with the books. Beside the few recipes I had from my mother-in-law, I knew nothing about cooking. With my Revere pots and pans and that cookbook, I began to cook. My husband didn’t like anything I made. Maybe I didn’t, either. I guess I had a long learning curve.

    I no longer have that cookbook but it lasted longer than that marriage. When I met Doug, I began to cook again, and the second cookbook I bought was the “Silver Palate Cookbook.” Like most ladies of the ‘70s, I made that fabulous chicken Marbella for dinner parties.

    In the new issue of “Bon Appetit,” there is an updated recipe using pork. It is easier and more delicious. Even if you have never made the original, you are in for a treat.

    Pork Marbella

    From “Bon Appetit,” February 2020

    Serves 4 to 6

    2 1-pound pork tenderloins

    2 teaspoon kosher or sea salt

    1 cup dry white wine

    1/2 cup pitted prunes, cut in half

    1/2 cup pitted Spanish green olives

    1/3 cup packed light brown sugar

    1/4 cup capers, plus 1 tablespoon brine

    1/4 cup red wine vinegar

    4 garlic cloves, smashed

    1 tablespoon dried oregano

    1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

    1 tablespoon unsalted butter

    1/4 cup chopped parsley (optional)

    Season pork with salt. Let sit 15 minutes.

    Meanwhile, mix wine, prunes, olives, brown sugar, capers and brine, vinegar, garlic oregano and 1/4 cup oil into a medium bowl to combine, set sauce aside (or use to to marinate pork up to 12 hours.

    Place a rack in middle of oven and preheat to 325 degrees.

    Heat remaining oil in a large ovenproof skillet over medium high. Cook pork, turning occasionally, until golden brown all over, 6 to 8 minutes.

    Remove skillet from heat and let sit 1 minute to cool the pan down a bit. Pour reserved sauces over pork and give pan a few shakes. Transfer to oven and roast pork, basting with sauce halfway through, until instant-read thermometer inserted into the tenderloin reads 145 degrees, 22 to 26 minutes, depending on the thickness of the meat. Transfer pork to a cutting board and let rest for 10 minutes

    Return pork to medium-high heat. Add butter to sauce and cook, swirling pan occasionally, until butter is melted and sauce is slightly reduced, about 4 minutes. Stir in parsley, if using.

    Slice pork against the grain. Transfer to a platter and spoon sauce over.

    Cook’s Tip: If you have the time, let the pork marinate in the sauce overnight before searing it, although it will still be super tender without the extra step.

    Lee White lives in Groton. She can be reached at leeawhite@aol.com.

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