Makes 8 tacos (4 servings)

Dried porcinis are a little pricey, but they store well and provide the best result for this dish. Smoked, dried morita chili peppers are available at Latin markets; they are quite potent. An equal portion of dried chili peppers labeled simply as "chipotle" may be substituted.

1 pound skirt steak

3 or 4 dried porcini mushrooms

½ dried morita chili pepper, seeded (may substitute ½ dried chipotle pepper)

½ to ¾ teaspoon smoked sea salt

2 ears corn

1 or 2 tablespoons vegetable oil, plus more for greasing the grill pan

6 ounces fresh mixed mushrooms

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

8 corn tortilla taco shells

Leaves from ½ bunch cilantro or ¼ head cabbage, shredded

Trim fat from steak so no more than one-quarter of the meat is covered with a thin layer. Pound meat to thickness of 1/3 inch.

Combine dried porcini, dried chili pepper and smoked salt in grinder; pulse until finely ground.

Rub mixture all over meat; set aside.

Heat a large, dry grill pan over high heat. Strip the kernels from the ears of corn to yield at least 1½ cups.

Heat a tablespoon or two of oil in a small skillet over medium heat. Add the mixed mushrooms and cook, 5 to 8 minutes, until softened. Season with salt and pepper to taste; reduce the heat to the lowest setting.

Make a small wad of paper towel and dip it into some oil; grip it with tongs and use it to grease the grill pan. Place the meat on the pan; cook for about 2 minutes, turn, and cook for 2 minutes on the second side until nicely browned and to desired degree of doneness. Transfer to a cutting board and let it rest; reduce the heat under the grill pan to medium.

Sprinkle corn evenly over the grill pan and cook for 1 to 2 minutes. Stir corn constantly with spatula so it browns but does not burn. (A few kernels might jump out, so be careful.) Transfer to a bowl. Turn off heat. If desired, lay the taco shells in the grill pan to crisp them up (or follow package directions for warming.

Cut the skirt steak across the grain into ½-inch-wide strips.

To serve, place a bed of cilantro leaves or shredded cabbage inside taco shells. Divide the steak evenly among the shells, then top with warm mushrooms and grilled corn.

Serve with your favorite salsa and a bean salad.

Adapted from "Tacos," by Mark Miller (Ten Speed Press, 2009).

- Bonnie S. Benwick, The Washington Post