A casual web search suggests there are only two restaurants in Connecticut devoted either in part or wholly to Korean cooking. This is a sorry state of affairs for the fan of Asian food, and one that I doubt will be rectified soon, given the perplexing reputation of this cuisine.

People tend to think of Korean food as inordinately spicy or intense. Some point to sweet/sour/peppery pickled cabbage and garlic (Kimchi, an ever-present side dish) and the use of hot sauce on so many dishes as evidence. I adore these vivid flavors but the truth is - happily - even more complex.

Over the years, numerous friends and I have had the pleasure of exploring the cuisine at New Haven's Seoul, which has been around for decades and which has been run by Sung Ye Kim ("Sunny") since 1999. The restaurant, situated near the Yale art galleries in downtown New Haven, underwent a welcome redecoration this summer. The space is now bigger, prettier, and it sports its own Karaoke stage (for special private events).

After four meals at Seoul this fall, I'm happy to report that Sunny and her staff haven't taken their eyes off the ball. I'm no expert on Korean cuisine, but each of my experiences has included at least one knockout dish and many more flavorful renditions of classic Korean recipes.

Although Sunny has dropped the sushi bar that once graced the front of the dining room, the menu still includes several Japanese staples, like Tonkatsu, Tempura, and Teriyaki. I suppose this appeals to a broader audience. My friends and I zeroed in on the Korean items, however.

Seoul's version of Kimchi is by no means overpowering, and it can be had either solo or mixed into other recipes. It appears in Kimchi Pajun ($13.95), a wheat-flour pancake, and Jae Yook Bokeum, which includes tofu and pork and is stir-fried in a spicy sauce ($18.95). On a bitter cold day, I loved Seoul's Kimchi Jigae, a peppery soup with lots of stewed Kimchi and bits of pork, tofu, and sliced scallops ($12.95) that proved the perfect winter restorative.

If you're not mad for Kimchi, try the Seafood Pajun, which we found irresistibly crispy on the outside, with a moist, eggy interior packed with bits of scallion and seafood. It was one of the best takes on a scallion pancake I'd ever eaten.

Other starters include stellar, homemade pan-fried Gyoza (dumplings) filled with meat, vegetables, and noodles ($7.95 or $12.95), and, for the same prices, small medallions of battered and fried cod (Codfish Jun, basically fried fish minus the chips).

Korea is renowned for its barbecued meats and seafood. At Seoul, make a point of trying the various Bulgogi (beef, pork, chicken, or squid, all $17.95), which are lacquered in a complex and delicious sauce that I find wonderfully rich, more assertive than domestic barbecues. If you order two or more of the same dish, the meal will be cooked at your table.

At one lunch, my partner ordered Seoul Special Kalbi, and I wish I'd followed suit. The platter of paper-thin slices of boneless short ribs, marinated and cooked to a deep mahogany, were served on a sizzling platter. The soy-based sauce was alternately slightly hot and sweet, and the beef was showered with sesame seeds. We found this more satisfying than the Kalbi Tang, where miniscule pieces of rib and meat and clear noodles were the somewhat sparse inhabitants of a mild beef broth ($13.95).

A sauce similar to the barbecue marinade is used in the stir-fried octopus ($18.95), which was accompanied by noodles and sliced peppers and which would have been ideal had the octopus not been overcooked. We'd ordered squid, but not all the servers are fluent in English, so make sure you underscore your preference.

Bibimbap is another Seoul imperative. It's a classic Korean dish, an assemblage of rice, vegetables, and beef, topped with an egg and served with hot sauce. It can be ordered cold ($12.95), but I prefer the Stone Pot Bibimbap ($15.95), which comes steaming to the table, the rice having crisped and caramelized - deliciously - along the sides of the pot. The idea is to toss the ingredients with some, or more, hot sauce, and dive in. The contrast in textures and flavors is pure bliss.

Meals come with four to six small bowls of banchan, cold pickled vegetables and tidbits of larger dishes like the delectable Chapchae, clear noodles based on sweet potato starch that are stir fried with vegetables. It's a mild dish and perfect for beginners ($13.95 for a full plate).

Other banchan include steamed broccoli, sprouts tossed in sesame oil, tofu, and, of course, Kimchi. Bowls of steamed rice also accompany the main courses.

Sunny is considering introducing a small plate menu later this winter that would be served after 8:30 p.m., and that would help new clients navigate this rich and varied cuisine. Whenever you can come, it's worth a drive, not solely for the curiosity factor, but for the sheer pleasure of the food.

Seoul

343 Crown St., New Haven

(203) 497-9634

www.seoulrestaurant.net

Cuisine: Korean and Pan-Asian. There is a full bar and a selection of wine and Asian and domestic beer.

Atmosphere: Seoul has recently been redecorated with several levels and a dozen or more well spaced, comfortable tables and chairs. The look is vaguely Korean teahouse.

Prices: Moderate. Prices range from $7.95 to $21.95, and a hearty dinner for two isn't much over $75, depending upon your bar tab.

Service: Very good. Staff is eager to help explain the more unusual items, but there can be a slight language barrier.

Credit cards: All majors.

Hours: Mon.-Thurs., 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m.; Fri., 11:30 a.m.-10:30 p.m.; Sat., noon-10:30 p.m.; Sun., noon-9:30 p.m.

Handicapped access: The restaurant is on several levels, and there is a 4- to 5-inch step up from the sidewalk on Crown Street.