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    Restaurant Reviews
    Tuesday, May 21, 2024

    Tipping Point: Our picks and pans

    MOVIE TIP

    Theater Camp

    This is an affectionate faux-documentary about a summer camp for theater-geek kids. The camp’s owner (played by Amy Sedaris, and I wish she had more of a role) is in a coma, leaving the financially struggling business in the hands of her vlogger-bro son (Jimmy Tatro). All the monetary shenanigans are less interesting than the stage-happy youths and teachers. Ben Platt and Molly Gordon play former campers who now lead the pack. Platt in particular finds the perfect balance between grounding his character in reality and finding subtle humor in what he does and says. The youngsters in the cast are irresistible — all seem like real youths, not wannabe Hollywood child stars. Platt and Gordon wrote “Theater Camp” with Noah Galvin, who also acts in the film, and Gordon co-directs with Nick Lieberman. As you can tell, it’s a team effort, and the fondness everyone has for the subject matter is obvious, particularly Platt and Gordon, who did children’s theater together. I will say that the jostling camerawork that people apparently think visually reflects real life is distracting — but not fatally so. “Theater Camp” is like a less funny but much kinder and sweeter cousin to “Waiting for Guffman.”

    – Kristina Dorsey

    ROAD TRIP TIP

    House of the Red Pearl

    Tin Building, New York City

    On a recent trip to Manhattan to rendezvous with my jet-setting sister Mic, we were turned onto the Tin Building, which, I learned, is a “food hall” orchestrated by someone named Jean-Jacques. Wait! No, it’s Jean-George! Apparently, he’s a Food God of some kind, and in this refurbished old, ah, tin building, on the East River, he’s created a sleek, two-story open mall that includes Chinese, seafood, French and vegan restaurants along with specialty shops. We tried the the House of the Red Pearl, which is, according to Jean-George, “Chinese-inspired” fare. It’s a small, golden space hidden behind a curtain at the back of an Asian market. It’s elegant but casual, with a quietly precise waitstaff dressed in those outfits Kim Jong Un wears. The food was absolutely superior — stunningly so. I’m not sure what New York City dining critics think, and I’m sure you have your own agenda when you hit The City, but we were truly delighted.

    — Rick Koster

    FOOD TIP

    Lamb tacos

    The Café

    3 Canal St., Westerly

    After recently seeing a movie at the United in Westerly, two friends and I stopped into The Café next door for dinner. I guess great minds DO think alike, because all of us ended up ordering the same thing: Braised Lamb Naan “Tacos” ($18). And, boy, was that a good choice. I’d argue it was more a gyro than a taco, but however you want to categorize it, it was delicious. The lamb was tender and flavorful, and the thin slices melded well with the tzatziki, cucumber, grape tomatoes, red onions, feta, greens and harissa, all tucked into naan. It came with a side of very good fries.

    – Kristina Dorsey

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