I'm a bit of an evangelist when it comes to crookneck summer squash.

I've been eating this bumpy, bent-neck variety every since I was a kid. As far back as I can recall, my dad grew it in the garden, and he and my mom anticipated the arrival of those bright yellow gems the way the rest of us looked forward to Christmas.

I don't recall ever eating the pale yellow, smooth-skin summer squash from the grocery store at my mother's table. For her — and I think for anyone raised on crooknet — that tasteless, watery supermarket variety is barely worth the small effort required to buy it and cook it. 

Now, I count devotees of that store-bought kind among my close friends and family, and I forgive them their preference, even though I don't understand it. Why would anyone choose flat, soggy squash when a robust, flavorful alternative is just a growing season away?

I actually think the availability of crookneck may be on the rise. In a significantly less than scientific survey, several people I know and whom I did not convert, grow crookneck in their gardens. Seeds are readily available at local garden centers in the spring, and I suspect the bumpy beauties are available right now at more than one local farmers market.

This is a very good year for crookneck in my garden. It's not that easy to grow and the plants aren't nearly as prolific as those of its less desirable cousin, so I planted four hills, three plants each, this year. Two hills never flourished but the other two have been quite prodigious in their output, so much so that I started looking for a new way to prepare it having grown nearly weary of my usual steaming method.

I sautéed some in butter and sweet onion then added a good handful of fresh dill. Delicious. Next, I cooked some in olive oil with sweet onions, red peppers, a bit of garlic plenty of fresh basil and served it over rigatoni with lots of Parmesan. That was good, too.

Next, I turned to the Internet, where a Google of "squash casserole" yields a bounty of variations on an cheddar cheese and Ritz cracker theme. The amount of fat — from butter to sour cream — varied, some reaching Paula Dean-style heights. I opted for a recipe from the food blog "Add a Pinch: Sweet, Savory, Southern" by Robyn Stone that included eggs.

The casserole is not wet at all, which I quite like. It reminds me of breakfast — never a bad thing. If you use a smaller dish and cook it for less time, you end up with a casserole that is similar to a soufflé. With the version I've provided, you're casserole will be more like a frittata.

Of course, if you must, you can substitute that other kind of squash. But let's not speak of it again.

Enjoy!

Jill Blanchette is the multiplatform production manager at The Day. Share comments and recipes with her at j.blanchette@theday.com.

Crookneck Squash Casserole

Serves 4-6

4 cups crookneck squash, sliced

1 medium onion, roughly chopped

2 eggs

1 cup grated sharp cheddar cheese

1 cup milk

¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 sleeve Ritz crackers

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Grease a 9-by-13 baking dish.

Melt 2 tablespoons of butter in a large skillet or sauté pan over medium-high heat. Slice the neck of the squash into ¼- to ½-inch rounds. Quarter the body of the squash then slice the quarters into ¼- to ½-inch slices. Add the squash and onion to the sizzling butter and cook, covered, until the squash is just beginning to become tender, about 5 minutes. The outside of the squash pieces should be easily pierced with a knife, but some resistance should be encountered in the center. Take the squash off the heat and allow to cool.

Meanwhile, melt the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter and also set it aside to cool. 

Put the Ritz crackers into a zip-top bag and crush them. I use my hands. If you have any children handy, this is a great task for them.

In a large bowl, beat the eggs. Whisk in the cheddar and the milk. Add the cayenne, salt and pepper, then whisk in your melted butter. Don't worry if it solidifies a bit in the cool egg and milk mixture. Just keep whisking as you drizzle the butter in.

Next, stir in the now lukewarm squash, just to combine, then pour the mixture into the prepared baking dish. Scatter the Ritz crackers evenly over the top. Bake in a preheated, 350-degree oven for 45 minutes until brown and sizzly. Allow your casserole to sit for 3 or 4 minutes before digging in.

Original recipe from the food blog "Add a Pinch: Sweet, Savory and Southern," by Robyn Stone.