Lyme — A public hearing on a vineyard's wine tasting proposal closed late Monday evening after more than three hours of discussion.

The Planning and Zoning Commission said it will review the record before taking a vote on a proposal from Sunset Hill Vineyard, a family-owned farm winery located in a RU-80 rural district on 5 Ely's Ferry Road, to host weekend wine tastings by appointment only.

The vineyard is seeking a special permit for small-group wine tastings by appointment from noon to 6 p.m. on Saturdays — with noon to 4 p.m. on Sundays serving as rain dates — from May to October. 

More than a dozen residents spoke on Monday, with opponents raising concerns about traffic and environmental impacts, and that the proposal constitutes a retail operation in an agricultural and residential neighborhood. Supporters said the proposal fits in with the agricultural heritage of the town, would not adversely affect the area, and is an example of what farms need to do today to survive.

Resident Chris Roosevelt said granting on-site consumption of alcohol in a residential, rural area would be a big change for the community. He recommended holding off until the town determines its regulations for wineries, rather than make a decision on an ad-hoc basis for one proposal.

"Go through a process with community involvement, but led by this commission, and determine where this commission and the town wants to have establishments of this kind under the state farm winery law and then come out with the kind of plan and regulation that is subjected to a proper process," he said.

David Lahm said historically almost all farms in town have had some kind of retail operation on their premises. Currently, he noted, Sankow's Beaver Brook Farm sells wool goods and lamb meat.  

"I would submit to the board that this is well within the history of our town and what has been going on for decades in this town," he said about the vineyard's proposal.

Warren Volles said he is concerned that the winery could expand and cited statistics that Napa has the highest rate of driving under the influence arrests in the nine-county region around San Francisco.

"I know this all sounds like a very small operation, but I'm more concerned about what would happen in the future and if the town of Lyme would be able to manage it," he said.

Matt Caruso, the applicant, stressed that the vineyard does not want to expand beyond its current proposal and shouldn't be compared to Napa.

"I'm in front of the town right now. I'm in front of the board. I'm on the record: we're not getting bigger," said Caruso.

Walter Adametz, the chairman of the Lower Connecticut River Valley Council of Governments Regional Agriculture Council, submitted a letter from the agricultural council in favor of the proposal. He said he has seen many farms chopped up into subdivisions and that farms today need niche markets to survive. 

Commission Chairman David Tiffany said the commission will review the substantial information and consult legal counsel.

Addressing concerns of residents, Tiffany said that if the application is granted for a special permit, the town could revoke the permit if the holder was ever found to be in violation. 

"There are strict controls on it," he said.  

According to the fire marshal's count, 171 people attended Monday's meeting.

k.drelich@theday.com

Twitter: @KimberlyDrelich