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    Tuesday, May 07, 2024

    Savoring the Seasons: Hot and sour soup: Faster and better than takeout

    Chances are, if you’re a fan of Chinese takeout, you’ve had hot and sour soup at least occasionally, perhaps alongside an order of General Tso’s chicken or shrimp lo mein. But have you ever made it at home?

    Until a couple of years ago, I hadn’t either — I’d never considered it. But after I stumbled upon a recipe online that promised clearer flavors than the takeout version, used common ingredients, and could be made from start to finish in under half an hour, I gave it a shot. Since then, this soup has become a regular part of our cold-weather dinner repertoire.

    This version might not be an authentic replica of what your local Chinese restaurant makes, but like the recipe notes promise, the flavors are more concentrated, probably in part because it’s thickened only with egg, not cornstarch. The heat comes from Sriracha and ground black or white pepper; the sour flavor comes from rice vinegar. You can easily adjust the balance between the two to your liking.

    Hot and sour is usually made with pork, and the original recipe called for it, but I’ve never been much of a pork fan, so I usually substitute an equal weight of finely chopped chicken breasts or thighs. For a vegetarian version, you can leave the meat out altogether and use vegetable stock in place of the chicken stock; it will have plenty of flavor regardless.

    Hot and Sour Soup

    Slightly adapted from Food52.com

    Ingredients

    2 tablespoons vegetable oil

    1-2 garlic cloves, minced

    1 tablespoon fresh ginger, minced

    1 bunch scallions, minced

    8 ounces ground pork or finely chopped chicken breasts or thighs

    4 cups chicken or vegetable stock

    1 pound soft or firm tofu, cut into 1/2-inch cubes

    1 cup thinly sliced button or Shitake mushrooms

    2/3 cup rice vinegar

    3 tablespoons soy sauce (possibly less if your stock is salty)

    1 teaspoon freshly ground black or white pepper

    1 tablespoon sesame oil

    1 tablespoon Sriracha sauce

    2 large eggs, beaten

    Heat the oil over medium-high heat. When hot, add the garlic, ginger, and all but a tablespoon or so of the scallions, and cook for one to two minutes, stirring frequently. Add the mushrooms and cook for about three to four minutes, until they begin to brown. Add the chicken or pork and cook for two to three minutes.

    Add the stock. Bring soup to a simmer, and add the tofu, vinegar, soy sauce, white or black pepper, sesame oil, and Sriracha sauce. Bring the soup back to a simmer; taste and adjust hot/sour balance with additional vinegar, Sriracha, and/or pepper as desired.

    With the soup simmering, drizzle the eggs into the broth into a steady stream, whisking as you do so. Simmer for another two to three minutes.

    To serve, ladle the soup into bowls. Drizzle each portion with additional sesame oil and garnish with remaining scallions.

    Emily Scace, an editor, enjoys discovering new recipes and perfecting old ones in her East Lyme kitchen. She cooks with local ingredients, including whatever is growing in her garden. She can be reached at savoringseasons@gmail.com.

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