I have the happiest memories of eating fish sticks as a child. They were one of the few frozen prepared foods my parents would buy, and they felt like a special occasion. I loved that I could eat them with my fingers, dunking them in ketchup like french fries. They tasted even better on the rare evenings I got to have them for dinner on a folding tray in the living room while watching television.

Hungry for that carefree eating experience, I recently considered a package of frozen fish sticks at the grocery store. I have to admit, I was pleasantly surprised at the simplicity of their ingredients — just fish, oil and breadcrumbs. But knowing how easy they are to whip up, how much fresher tasting and more flavorful they can be when homemade, and how I prefer them baked rather than fried, as the packaged versions typically are, I decided to pick up the ingredients to make my own.

Any firm white fish makes good fish sticks, so I went for the best-looking, most economical fillets at the store. That turned out to be haddock on this particular visit, but cod, scrod, pollock, tilapia or halibut would all work well.

My trick for achieving a beautifully browned, crunchy coating without risking overcooking the fish, is to toast the breadcrumbs first. So, I tossed some panko with olive oil, spread it evenly on a sheet pan and popped it in the oven for a few minutes until it took on a nice, golden-brown color. To layer in more flavor, I seasoned those breadcrumbs with paprika, garlic, salt and pepper, and beat a bit of Dijon mustard into a couple of eggs.

Then I got to dipping — first in some flour, then the egg mixture and, finally, the seasoned breadcrumbs. The batons of coated fish went back on the same sheet pan and into the oven.

While the fish baked, I whipped up a quick, better-for-you tartar sauce by stirring yogurt and a little mayonnaise with chopped sour pickle and scallion. You could swap in capers for the pickle, and chives or onion for the scallion if you’d like. (I have outgrown ketchup with my fish sticks, but no judgment if you prefer that instead.)

After 10 minutes the fish came out with a crunchy exterior and the most tender, flaky interior. Dipped in the creamy, tangy tartar sauce, they hit the spot just as I had hoped. And yes, I indulged my nostalgia further by eating them while watching my favorite show.

Baked Fish Sticks

35 mins; Total time: 45 mins

These fish sticks taste fresher and more flavorful than the packaged kind — and they’re better for you, too, because they are baked rather than fried. The trick for achieving their crisp, golden brown coating without overcooking the fish is to briefly toast the breadcrumbs first. Served with a creamy, yogurt-based tartar sauce, they are easy to pull together and eating them is bound to elicit a childlike joy.

Make ahead: The tartar sauce can be prepared and refrigerated for up to 4 days in advance.

Storage: Refrigerate the leftover fish for up to 2 days, and the sauce for up to 4 days.

Ingredients

For the tartar sauce

1/3 cup low-fat or full-fat Greek yogurt

3 tablespoons mayonnaise

1/4 cup finely chopped sour pickle (1 small pickle)

2 tablespoons chopped scallion

For the fish sticks

1-1/2 cups panko

2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for the pan

2 teaspoons sweet paprika

1 teaspoon granulated garlic

1/2 teaspoon fine salt

2 large eggs

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1/3 cup whole-wheat pastry flour or all-purpose flour

1 pounds firm white fish fillets, such as cod, scrod, hake, haddock, halibut or tilapia

Chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, for serving (optional)

lemon wedges, for serving

Steps

Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 425 degrees.

Make the tartar sauce: In a medium bowl, stir together the yogurt, mayonnaise, pickle and scallion until combined. Use right away, or transfer to a lidded jar and refrigerate until needed. You should have about 3/4 cup.

Make the fish sticks: In a medium bowl, toss the panko with the oil until evenly coated. Transfer the mixture to a large sheet pan and toast in the oven for about 4 minutes, stirring halfway through, until golden brown. Return the panko to the bowl; leave the oven on. Once the pan has cooled, wipe it clean, then brush lightly with oil.

To the breadcrumbs, add the paprika, garlic and salt and stir to combine. In another medium bowl, whisk the eggs together with the mustard until combined. Put the flour on a shallow plate.

Pat the fish dry, then cut into 3- to 4-inch-long and 1-inch-wide batons. Dip each piece of the fish into the flour, shaking off the excess. Then dip it into the egg mixture, shaking off the excess, and finally coat in the breadcrumbs, pressing to adhere. Transfer to the prepared sheet pan and bake for about 10 minutes, or until the coating is deep golden brown flaky and the fish is flaky and opaque on the inside.

Divide among plates, garnish with parsley, if using, and serve with lemon wedges and the tartar sauce.

Substitutions:

Scallions >> chives.

Sour pickle >> any pickle of your choice or capers.

Greek yogurt >> sour cream.

Variations: To make these fish sticks in an air fryer, preheat the air fryer on the air fry setting to 400 degrees.

Combine the breadcrumbs with the oil and spices without toasting in the oven and proceed with the recipe as instructed with the following modifications: Air fry in two batches, or as needed, for 7 minutes, or until the coating is deep golden brown and crispy.

You can also air fry from frozen, adding 1 minute to the cook time.

Nutrition per serving: (about 4 pieces fish plus 3 tablespoons sauce): 322 calories, 17g carbohydrates, 101mg cholesterol, 16g fat, 1g fiber, 26g protein, 3g saturated fat, 524mg sodium, 1g sugar

This analysis is an estimate based on available ingredients and this preparation. It should not substitute for a dietitian’s or nutritionist’s advice.