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    Thursday, May 09, 2024

    Trails from the Kettle Pond refuge go on for miles and miles

    The Kettle Pond Wildlife Refuge in Charlestown, R.I., contains a network of hiking paths. (Maggie Jones) 

    From the top branch of an oak tree, a barred owl stared imperiously at us humble humans the other morning, either disinterested or disappointed that we weren’t tasty squirrels.

    Maggie Jones cupped her hands and gave a pitch-perfect rendition of the bird’s distinctive who cooks for you, who cooks for you all call, but it continued to peer down with coal-black eyes, as if to say, “What do you think I am — stupid?”

    A moment later, the owl spread its wings that measured nearly four feet across and flapped noiselessly away. Can’t say I blame it.

    Maggie, Andy Lynn, Phil Plouffe, Mary Sommer and I were hiking through Kettle Pond Wildlife Refuge in Charlestown, R.I., which contains the headquarters for Rhode Island’s five national wildlife refuges. These preserves are a birdwatcher’s paradise, attracting some 250 different species that visit seasonally and 70 that build nests.

    As part of the 900-acre Ninigret refuge, the 115-acre Kettle Pond section may not get as much foot traffic as shoreline sanctuaries because it occupies the inland side of Route 1. As is the case in real estate, the popularity of any given nature preserve often depends on three factors: location, location and location.

    Even without frontage on the Atlantic Ocean, the Kettle Pond refuge offers ample rewards. Undulating trails weave through lush forests, among glacial boulders, past vernal pools, over rocky ridges, and connect to other footpaths that go on for miles and miles and miles.

    “Hey! This looks familiar,” I remarked, as we intersected with one such byway, Rhode Island’s North South Trail.

    Last year, Maggie, Phil and I tramped this 90-mile path in stages from the Massachusetts border to the Atlantic Ocean, joined occasionally by Mary and other friends.

    We did not veer off on the North South Trail last week, but continued rambling on a circuitous route that took us to the shore of Watchaug Pond. A brisk wind whipped up whitecaps on this 573-acre kettle pond, one of Rhode Island’s largest freshwater lakes.

    We could have followed a trail around Watchaug, but this would have added a dozen or so miles to what turned out to be a nearly seven-mile sojourn.

    Instead, we hiked through contiguous swaths of open space, including Rhode Island Audubon's Kimball Wildlife Refuge and a section of Burlingame State Park. With more than 700 campsites, 20 cabins and a pond for swimming and boating, Burlingame bustles on summer weekends; on this chilly weekday in early spring, we had the park to ourselves.

    With leaves yet to appear, we enjoyed sweeping views of the surrounding terrain. One expansive section contained an understory of huckleberry, blueberry and other low-growing ericaceous shrubs.

    “Eager foragers will have to wait until summer to harvest wild blueberries and huckleberries,” Maggie noted.

    She also pointed out trailing arbutus, a ground cover, loaded with buds and ready to bloom.

    “Soon its jasmine scent will permeate the coastal woodlands. It only grows in the presence of a particular fungus, so should not be transplanted,” Maggie said.

    Back at the Kettle Pond Refuge, we clambered up a lookout tower and gazed at Block Island, some 12 miles offshore. Before long, this stretch of water will teem with sailboats, fishing boats, ferries, kayaks, windsurfers and all other manner of recreational vessels. It was nice to see the sound deserted.

    We also visited the Kettle Pond Visitor Center, which features a native plant garden and contains handsome exhibits and dioramas illustrating the region’s geologic and natural history.

    The headquarters building also displays a plaque honoring longtime environmental advocate John H. Chaffee, a former Rhode Island governor and U.S. senator, as well as navy secretary, whose legislation helped create the state’s national wildlife refuges. One the five refuges was named in Chaffee’s honor after his death in 1999.

    I chatted with Beverly Lavalee, a youthful octogenarian who has been a refuge volunteer for 25 years. A trail and a park bench bear her name.

    “It’s a wonderful place,” she said. “I hike here and at the other refuges several times a week.”

    The visitors center reopened about a month ago after having been closed for two years due to COVID.

    “People are starting to come back,” Mrs. Lavalee said. “I’m looking forward to seeing the school groups again.”

    The visitor center, located at 50 Bend Road in Charlestown, is open from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. on Mondays, Tuesdays and Saturday.

    Trails depart from the parking lot.

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