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    Elan
    Monday, April 29, 2024

    Hen & Heifer

    Pumpkin cheesecake

    The elements that differentiate Hen & Heifer from other shops of its kind are immediately apparent upon walking through its door. Open now for almost six months, Hen & Heifer features walls clad in Colonial blue. Two rows of elegant mugs made of black terra cotta with white glaze hang on the back wall. The name, Hen & Heifer, seems mysterious, maybe even a little odd at first, but clarity sets in when owner Jeffrey Capone explains.

    “Hens produce eggs, and heifers produce milk,” he says. “Eggs and milk are two of the most important ingredients that a bakery uses.”

     Many of this shop’s ingredients, like its eggs, yogurt, and coffee, are from local farms.

    Though he is the owner, Capone credits almost everything, from the shop’s name to its décor, to pastry chef Whang Suh.

    Suh explains, “My background is in classic French pastries. I’ve always wanted to do something like this, so I knew the direction had to be classic French with a little bit of American.”

    Capone adds, “He’s gone for a very specific look and a very specific feel, and I think it works for the community.”

    More than two dozen different types of handmade baked goods and sweets, some rarely seen outside of fi ne bakeries in Europe, are attractively displayed behind glass on glazed terra cotta.

    Capone says, “Most people when they come in for the first time, they photograph everything.”

    On a late Sunday morning in autumn, customers came and went in waves. Capone and Suh beamed at each person who came into their shop and greeted most by name. New customers seemed destined to become new friends, or at least repeat visitors.

    “Our customer base has been tremendously supportive and loyal, and we’ll never jeopardize that,” Capone comments.

    The menu changes with the seasons. Offerings include six different flavors of French macarons, three different muffins, cannele, croissants, granola, toffee, caramel popcorn, caramels, chocolates, tarts, pies, custard, scones, and cookies—and every item is made in house. Colorful and beautifully prepared, many seem almost too pretty to eat—but somehow they taste even better than they look. Drinks include hot and iced coffee, iced tea, hot tea (six types of the fi nest Parisian variety, of course), hot chocolate, chocolate milk, orange juice, and, in the summer, flavored lemonades.

    Hen & Heifer also provides custom tarts and cakes to go (with at least 48 hours’ notice) in nine- or six-inch sizes. The menu lists an apple streusel tart, lemon meringue tart, and pear and almond tart. Single servings of the tarts are available behind the counter to walk-ins. Cake types include cheesecake, chocolate, caramel apple, lemon olive, chocolate pound, brown sugar pound, and brownie.

    When you do visit the cozy-yet-sophisticated café, you’ll want to spend more than a minute or two. If you like to sit down and savor fi ne pastries, yogurt and granola, and locally-farmed coffee beans, however, then make Hen & Heifer your new morning retreat. Each cushioned seat and table is next to a window, and there’s a courtyard with seating for nice weather.

    Suh and Capone met in New York 12 years ago and are self-described Francophiles. Suh studied at the French Culinary Institute in New York, and Capone spent several years living and working in Paris in the 1980s. That love of all things French has infused their bakery, and customers are noticing.

    Capone says, “Many people come in here and they’ll say, ‘Oh! This reminds me of my trip to Paris!’ They all talk about how they’ve traveled and this strikes a chord with them.” “Food is…really about making people happy and establishing relationships,” says Suh.

    Capone says, “We’ve met some absolutely incredible people. We’ve made more friends in the short period of time that we’ve been here than I made in my 20-something years in New York.”

    Capone muses, “I think what I get out of this is seeing the look on people’s faces when they bite into the food for the first time.”

    Hen & Heifer, 23 Water Street, Guilford, 203- 689-5651, www.henandheifer.com Hours: Thursday through Saturday, 7 a.m. to 4 p.m.; Sunday, 7 a.m. to 1 p.m.

    Pastry Chef Whang Suh, left, and owner Jeffrey Capone opened Hen & Heifer in the spring of 2013.

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