Imagine a large mound of fresh lump crab meat. Now, dilute it significantly with mayo and bread crumbs and fry it. Huh? I mean, why do people do that? I suppose that can be a pleasant combination. But ... why not just eat the crab? Or you could try what the folks over at the Harbor House in Mystic have conjured. Put a large mound of fresh, lightly seasoned crab meat on a brioche roll. Add slices of mellow Gruyère cheese and fresh avocado. Pile on lettuce and tomato and dill mayo — WAIT! I don't want the mayo or, for that matter, the lettuce/tomato. But the crab, Gruyère and avocado on a roll ($15) is a beautiful, crab-centric sammich. And you can decide what to do with the variables. Harbor House, Inn at Mystic, is at 3 Williams Ave., Mystic; (860) 536-8140.