I used to hate the phrase "as the crow flies" because I never understood why "crows" were singled out for that particular cliché. Later, I learned a research group formed to explore "helpful banalities" tested several types of birds to see which would resonate best with potential users, and "crow" scored highest in focus groups. (Among the fowl that didn't make the cut were "as the grouse flies," "as the ribbon-tailed astrapia flies" and "as the wren flies.")

The point is, there is a murder of crows that has for some reason fallen into the habit of "racing me home" each night when I leave The Day newsroom and drive three miles to my New London home, which is distinguishable by its shack-like appearance amidst the far statelier Rich Person manses by the beaches.

Some would suggest that a battalion of crows following me around is an ominous portent. I choose to believe the crows simply find me a "kindred spirit" in their sullen and dark crow-ness.

Anyway, the crows always win these races because, as we've established — painfully, some might say — theirs is a straight A-Z path without the impediments of traffic or street patterns or red lights. Plus, more and more, I find myself veering slightly off path to Montauk Avenue to stop at the marvelous Mi Familia restaurant for some always-excellent Puerto Rican fare.

It's a tiny spot with a wood-shingled exterior. Service is mostly takeout although, for the warm weather months, there are a few picnic tables — the tops of which are painted like the Puerto Rican flag — on a covered patio. As you walk in, a menu board is on your right with Mi Familia's Mofongo dishes placed front and center. Also very popular are the Steam Table Combos. Indeed, straight ahead, behind COVID-era safety glass, is a cafeteria-style array of bins full of various dishes offering an array of pork, chicken, beef or steak entrees supplemented by additional vats of yellow or white rice, sweet plantains, yuca, mixed veggies and green salad.

The staff, who indeed seem to be kin, are very friendly and helpful. For example, when my wife Eileen explained she was a vegetarian and wasn't sure which dishes might work for her diet, the gentleman behind the counter cheerfully pointed out all of several items made with no animal products. Then, he said, "Why don't you let me make you a plate. I promise you'll be really happy."

He was as good as his word and Eileen got a heaping go-box of excellence.

Here are recent dishes we've tried at Mi Famila:

• Eileen's "custom" veggie meal ($9) – A happy and e'er-changing carousel of complementary flavors and textures: the yellow rice with pigeon peas and what seemed an occasional cube of butternut squash; lovingly seasoned and just-right al dente pinto beans; a mélange of fresh carrots and string beans; tasty and toothsome yuca (an indigenous root) with its interesting and fibrous complexity; and the house potato salad with minimal mayo goop and perfectly punctuated with chopped peppers.

• Shrimp Mofongo ($16) — Wow. The signature anchor of this dish is fried green plantains that are mashed, mixed with oil, garlic, broth and salt and crushed pork rinds, then shaped into a towering mesa of earthy greatness. Mi Familia surrounds and tops it with seven large, peeled, cooked shrimp along cilantro and strips of sauteed onion and red peppers. I had the most fun spearing forkfuls of mofongo, placing them on my tongue, and then following with a snapped bite of shrimp.

• Pork Combo ($12) — Depending on the day, you might find bone-in riblets or pulled pork. Both are very good. The former are ideal for gnawing as the meat, with its crisped exterior, provides a crusty counterpoint to the juicier, savory meat inside. The shredded meat of the latter would be competitive with any Carolina or Texas versions. The mellow pork is massaged with tropical seasonings and stays moist throughout the meal.

I've sampled with both the fluffy white rice, which works wonderfully as a chewy contextual flavor conspirator, and the yellow, which as described above brings its own tasty components to bear.

• Chicken Combo ($10) — Again, choices. Fried or broiled? I've only tried the broiled. Each serving comes with a wing and a breast. Skin-on for a slight crackle as you bite, then incredibly succulent meat inside. Again, there are subtle Caribbean seasonings at play in just the perfect application. Try this with the yuca.

• Emanadillas ($3) — These are in a small glass display case hard to the cashier and, for me anyway, are hard-to-resist "impulse-buy" items. If you're not familiar, think of them as savory fried pies. They come in a variety of options, but I heartily recommend the seasoned ground beef (with or without cheese) and the shredded chicken. The fillings are made daily and the crust is both flakey and crisp. Two of these comprise a fun meal unto itself.

My recommendation is that you ignore the crows flying with unerring and eerie aim towards my house. Follow me, instead, as I head to Mi Familia. Worth noting: having steadfastly made it through COVID with the help of fine food and loyal customers, Mi Familia aims to move to a roomier location on Broad Street in late spring — a spot with a roomy dining room and patio.

Mi Famila

111 Montauk Ave.

New London

(959) 201-6853

Cuisine: Superior Puerto Rican, Latin

Atmosphere: Small storefront for takout with indigenous decorative touches; a picnic tables under covered roof for seasonal dining

Service: Attentive, cordial and, indeed, familial

Hours: 11 a.m.-8 a.m. Tues.-Sat.

Handicapped access: Slight step up through front door; small floor space.

Prices: Very reasonable for a huge amount of food

Reservations: Call ahead for take-out or wait on premises; prep time is quick.