It’s a rare opportunity to get a behind-the-scenes glimpse of the birth of a beer, but that’s what happened earlier this month at a tasting at Thames River Wine & Spirits in New London.

Thames River has a well-earned reputation as a place where you can get some expert advice on how to pick out that perfect, and often affordable, bottle of wine. But co-owner Fred Argilagos also dabbles in beer. In 2011, he released Safe Harbor Blonde Ale, known as the official beer of the Whaling City.

Now, he has gone back to work with the folks at Cottrell Brewing Co. in Pawcatuck to brew three more Safe Harbor styles.

He met with Cottrell owner Charlie Buffum and head brewer John Andorfer and explained his thoughts and wants behind each style. Buffum and Andorfer then started making test batches. When a batch was ready, the three would sit and sip and decide on changes on the malts or hops profile. For Safe Harbor IPA, it’s 15 test batches and counting.

Buffum and Andorfer were all ears at the tasting, too, as they made their way around the room pouring samples and chatting with those lucky enough to be in attendance.

“Their comments were very helpful to Charlie and John to help them make the final adjustments to the recipes,” Argilagos said of the feedback offered.

The night started off with Safe Harbor Blonde Ale, which has found a niche locally as what’s known as a gateway beer for craft drinkers.

In addition to the Safe Harbor offerings, two of Cottrell’s better brews were featured: Stonington Glory, a Czech-style pilsner; and Perry’s Revenge, a Scotch Ale that celebrates Buffum’s discovery of of the USS Revenge off Watch Hill.

But Argilagos had invited a crowd thick with beer geeks, and we mostly wanted to get a first taste of the new Safe Harbor brews.

Safe Harbor 1790 is a light amber, Vienna style lager. It goes down malty and clean, with some roastiness from the chocolate malt. This is a crisp beer perfect for a hot summer day. In a nice touch, Jones will give $1 per 6-pack sold to the effort to build a National Coast Guard Museum on the city’s waterfront.

The beer is named in honor of the year the Coast Guard was founded and their motto “Semper Paratus” (Always Ready) appears on the label. The beer is expected to be available before Memorial Day.

This summer, the city will celebrate the Coast Guard’s 225th anniversary, the 100th anniversary of the establishment of the Coast Guard Academy and the planned museum. As part of that, Safe Harbor 1790 has been named the Official Beer of Connecticut’s Coast Guard Summer.

If Argilagos has his way, you’ll see all the Safe Harbor beers in the city this summer.

“We are hoping that Safe Harbor will be included in all New London summer events and functions — like SailFest,” he said.

The latest version of Safe Harbor American IPA is not a hophead’s dream but more of a session beer. The hop profile is more fruity and floral than bitter. Interestingly, one of the five hops, Jarrylo, is new to the market and Safe Harbor is one of the first beers to use it. The Yakima Valley hop gives the IPA an aroma of pears.

“I think it’s delicious,” Argilagos said, and most in the audience agreed.

Thames River nicely matched up each beer with some food, and the pairing of the IPA with pretzels and spicy mustard and Red Dragon cheese, a cheddar with wholegrain mustard seeds and ale, was brilliant.

The final Safe Harbor offering of the night was an American blonde ale that has been aged in whiskey barrels at Cottrell. It’s available in 22-ounce bottles. 

t.cotter@theday.com

Twitter: @tcotter_theday