Chester’s Barbecue

943 Poquonnock Road, Groton

Chestersbbq.com, (860) 449-6868

During 26½ years at The Day, I’ve always qualified my comments about local barbecue with presumably boorish references to my Texas background. It’s not meant to be snobbish — I’M not the one making the barbecue — but I think it’s fair to note that New England isn’t a smoked meat hot spot.

It’s getting better all the time, though, as pitmasters Lennon and McCartney sang. In that spirit, I enjoyed two recent visits to Chester’s BBQ in Groton. The brisket is tender (you can order lean or fatty — which is a frequent distinction available in Texas, btw), with a crisped exterior and a delicate smoky redolence. The Carolina styled pulled pork — with the requisite vinegar infusion — was damned good, and sides like potato salad and collard greens are very competitive.

Prices are high, but you get a lot of food and, well, restaurant and fast food prices are high everywhere.

Chester’s is roomy, the folks behind the counter are glad to see you, and Groton is a lot closer drive than the Texas Hill Country.

— Rick Koster

Portuguese Holy Ghost Society Lenten Fish Fry

26 Main St., Stonington

(860) 535-3855

holyghostclub.com

I heard from a friend who tried to get into the fish fry at the Portuguese Holy Ghost Society last Friday that she went for dinner but business was so brisk that they had run out of scallops and shrimp.

Wow! I’m sure the social club will be better prepared this Friday for the crowds who queue up for the clam chowder and plates of fried cod, scallops, shrimp, and French fries, served with coleslaw, tartar sauce, and bread and butter.

It’s a labor of love at the Portuguese Holy Ghost Society where volunteers have been serving fish and chips in the run-up to Lent for more than 30 years. This year the tradition continues every Friday through March 29 from 11 a.m. to 7:30 p.m. You can call ahead for take-out and park out front to stop in and get your food.

Portions are ample and the prices are fair. It’s $15 for the fish and chips dinner and $18 for a shrimp and fish combination. Clam chowder is $6. The most expensive thing on the menu is the scallop dinner — a favorite among regulars — for $24. (They do not take credit cards.)

The proceeds are used for upkeep of the clubhouse and for scholarships and charitable contributions to local causes. It’s not just a good meal, it’s good food for a good cause.

– Ann Baldelli

Teddy's Old Lyme Pizza Palace

264 Shore Road, Old Lyme

(860) 434-1517

www.teddysoldlymepizzamenu.com

When the comfort food siren sings, rest assured Teddy’s Old Lyme Pizza Palace offers several cozy options. There’s the titular pizza, of course, and we enjoyed the hamburger and green pepper pizza ($13.40 for a small), with its thick layer of oozy cheese, seasoned ground beef and crispy peppers.

In our region, gyros are another variety of comfort food, and Teddy’s offers the classic pita rollup with either chicken ($10.75) or beef served with the usual accompaniments — lettuce, tomatoes and chopped onions, plus very good tzatziki sauce. Bonus: The pita itself was very good and fresh.

Pasta is another go-to instant-happiness dish for me, and we spent one of the last chilly nights of winter with Teddy’s very tasty Stuffed Shells with meat sauce ($16.80; comes with a side salad and garlic bread). I love any meal that comes with garlic bread, but the ricotta-filled shells awash in bright, herbal tomato sauce played their parts well and delivered a satisfying meal.

Grinders, seafood, sandwich platters and entrees round out Teddy’s comprehensive, family-friendly menu. Come summer time, we suspect local and visiting families alike will find their own comfort-food favorites at Teddy’s.

– Marisa Nadolny